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50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the great Pembroke classics. It follows a cunning line up the wall weaving in and out of the steep bits. Start at the right-hand end of the block under the face, below a steep groove which leads to a ledge on the left.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the groove and wall above the ledge to the break. Traverse left for 10m to belay on a ledge below the longest of several grooves in the wall above.
2) 5b, 15m. Climb the groove, passing left of two roofs, onto a slab and belay. Often found to be the hardest pitch.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb up to a corner on the right-hand side of the large roof. Follow this then move leftwards around the roofs to finish up another corner. These last two pitches can be run together. © Rockfax

FA. B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham, J.Perrin 07/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), UK Holiday Plans, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
slowmotion 24 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sophie lead P2 and 3 together which was impressive and I wouldn't advise it!
βeta?
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βeta: Sophie lead P2 and 3 together which was impressive and I wouldn't advise it!
Neil Binns 27 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in its own right.
βeta?
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βeta: I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in its own right.
Furzy Sleight 30 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great adventure but pretty sustained and that last pitch is a right bugger.
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βeta: A great adventure but pretty sustained and that last pitch is a right bugger.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great line with lots of interest on each pitch, second pitch felt only 5a. Top pitch is the meat of the route with thrutchy polished crack and thin traverse (sneaky jug up right). Overall probably worth E2 (combining 2nd and 3rd pitches) or tough E1 done in three pitches.
βeta?
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βeta: Great line with lots of interest on each pitch, second pitch felt only 5a. Top pitch is the meat of the route with thrutchy polished crack and thin traverse (sneaky jug up right). Overall probably worth E2 (combining 2nd and 3rd pitches) or tough E1 done in three pitches.
Grinning Donkey 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: E2 for sure by my reckoning....given the commitment, the ab in and the 3rd pitch 'awful move left'...yep...good for the money...
βeta?
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βeta: E2 for sure by my reckoning....given the commitment, the ab in and the 3rd pitch 'awful move left'...yep...good for the money...

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Votes cast 41
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Votes cast 38
Votes cast 35
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Route of Interest

Brazen Buttress

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)