UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The upper arete is gained from the right. Pleasant though poorly protected, and featuring a huge chipped hold. The direct start up the groove to the left of February Fox is an overgrown 6b. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Millstone Edge

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User Date Notes
Dave LJ 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Not as poorly protected as suggested. You can get wires in at crack as you start, then a third up the arete a rock in the hooky break, hung with heavy gear to ensure it takes a fall the right way, 2 microwires in the thin crack above that on the left wall, which protects the rockover on the arete which looks a lot harder than it is. Another wire in the crack on teh left before the top. Nice continuation to Mayday.
Show beta
βeta: Not as poorly protected as suggested. You can get wires in at crack as you start, then a third up the arete a rock in the hooky break, hung with heavy gear to ensure it takes a fall the right way, 2 microwires in the thin crack above that on the left wall, which protects the rockover on the arete which looks a lot harder than it is. Another wire in the crack on teh left before the top. Nice continuation to Mayday.
GrahamD 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first ever 'HVS'. Its really a run out VS, though, with good rests all the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first ever 'HVS'. Its really a run out VS, though, with good rests all the way.
Ropeboy 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A one move wonder but a nice one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A one move wonder but a nice one.
Chris the Tall 15 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If you're tall or just very agile, you can do the crux via an exilarating heel hook round the arete! A direct start up the wall 4ft to the left of March Hare is excellant but scary E1 5b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you're tall or just very agile, you can do the crux via an exilarating heel hook round the arete! A direct start up the wall 4ft to the left of March Hare is excellant but scary E1 5b

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
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Route of Interest

David

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Burbage South Edge)
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