UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the tricky crusty layback to finish. © Rockfax

FAA. Ted Howard early 1960s.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Millstone HVS's , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Millstone * HVS In a day , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5

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User Date Notes
Carl 27 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Birds of some sort nesting up there, had to do some prompt down aiding to leave them in peace! Probably avoid for now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds of some sort nesting up there, had to do some prompt down aiding to leave them in peace! Probably avoid for now.
PaulJepson 20 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting on route- they're deep in there but noisy bois. There is also a big loose block at the top, only held in by mud. Go steady!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting on route- they're deep in there but noisy bois. There is also a big loose block at the top, only held in by mud. Go steady!
James McNaught 11 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First half i.e. the crack was a Bit of a scrap, but I'm still mastering the art of crack climbing. Sat at the niche to contemplate the view and pull myself together. The brief layback is lovely but over all too quickly. Fun route. Not much in the way of anchor points at the top. Advise long ropes and using the fence posts as anchor points... approx 15m from edge of route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First half i.e. the crack was a Bit of a scrap, but I'm still mastering the art of crack climbing. Sat at the niche to contemplate the view and pull myself together. The brief layback is lovely but over all too quickly. Fun route. Not much in the way of anchor points at the top. Advise long ropes and using the fence posts as anchor points... approx 15m from edge of route.
Fakey Rocks 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: After the chockstone thread, BD big silver grey cam can be progressively slid up the crack (seemed a good fit in most places) from half way standing precariously on the left + right foot in crack,. Only did one or 2 fist jams, more of a layback to end the wide crack. It's not over there though, 2nd half is also fun. Awesome route.
Show beta
βeta: After the chockstone thread, BD big silver grey cam can be progressively slid up the crack (seemed a good fit in most places) from half way standing precariously on the left + right foot in crack,. Only did one or 2 fist jams, more of a layback to end the wide crack. It's not over there though, 2nd half is also fun. Awesome route.
JDDD 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to Simon Lee: I know what you mean. I borrowed a large hex and you can get a nut on the left of the big crack. Awsome route and gives you a real sense of achievement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In reply to Simon Lee: I know what you mean. I borrowed a large hex and you can get a nut on the left of the big crack. Awsome route and gives you a real sense of achievement.
UKB Shark 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Too wide for my fists & difficult to protect
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Too wide for my fists & difficult to protect

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lyons Corner House

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)

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