UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the tricky crusty layback to finish. © Rockfax

FAA. Ted Howard early 1960s.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Michelle's crack ticklist, Millstone Edge, I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fakey Rocks 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: After the chockstone thread, BD big silver grey cam can be progressively slid up the crack (seemed a good fit in most places) from half way standing precariously on the left + right foot in crack,. Only did one or 2 fist jams, more of a layback to end the wide crack. It's not over there though, 2nd half is also fun. Awesome route.
Show beta
βeta: After the chockstone thread, BD big silver grey cam can be progressively slid up the crack (seemed a good fit in most places) from half way standing precariously on the left + right foot in crack,. Only did one or 2 fist jams, more of a layback to end the wide crack. It's not over there though, 2nd half is also fun. Awesome route.
JDDD 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to Simon Lee: I know what you mean. I borrowed a large hex and you can get a nut on the left of the big crack. Awsome route and gives you a real sense of achievement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In reply to Simon Lee: I know what you mean. I borrowed a large hex and you can get a nut on the left of the big crack. Awsome route and gives you a real sense of achievement.
UKB Shark 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Too wide for my fists & difficult to protect
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Too wide for my fists & difficult to protect

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brooks' Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)
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