Rockfax Description
The leaning crack with a kink early on, is gained from the left and sprinted on jams and jugs, passing a niche. Steep and pumpy, it is often dirty and can feel hard for the grade. © Rockfax
FAA. John Loy 1964.
Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Millstone * HVS In a day , Michelle's crack ticklist , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak
User | Date | Notes | ||
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stephenmckenzie | 12 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Pumpy. Feeled lead attempt and dogged on second. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pumpy. Feeled lead attempt and dogged on second. |
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climbersion | 16 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Not a horrendous route....but not HVS either! More like solid E1 5b although my second felt it to be nearer 5C. Very sustained overhanging jamming for the first 1/2. Now cleaned for 06! Go do. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not a horrendous route....but not HVS either! More like solid E1 5b although my second felt it to be nearer 5C. Very sustained overhanging jamming for the first 1/2. Now cleaned for 06! Go do. |
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Ropeboy | 13 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Hard(ish) climbing the moment leave the ground makes this feel very pumpy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard(ish) climbing the moment leave the ground makes this feel very pumpy. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 14 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: A horrendous route! Overgrown and dirty. I've led both Brimstone and Gates of Mordor, and found this one the hardest of the three! Deserves at least E1 for the sustained climbing in the first half of the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A horrendous route! Overgrown and dirty. I've led both Brimstone and Gates of Mordor, and found this one the hardest of the three! Deserves at least E1 for the sustained climbing in the first half of the route. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)