Rockfax Description
The sustained right-angled groove is quite hard at the grade, though protection is excellent. Beware the dusty shelving top. © Rockfax
FAA. Pete Biven, Trevor Peck early 1950s (at A3!) FFA. Joe Brown 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Adele & Dave , Millstone Edge , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Eal List , Diffage Comp
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WillMancini | 8 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Really fun climb loads of gear and enjoyable moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really fun climb loads of gear and enjoyable moves |
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| Stanley | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Great fun, sustained but steady. | ||
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βeta: Great fun, sustained but steady. |
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| Charlotte Whitmore | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Sandy/loose stones at top. Belay options limited - 2 good boulders. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sandy/loose stones at top. Belay options limited - 2 good boulders. |
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| supermembrane | 23 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Superb battle from start to finish. Had to fight to get onto the ledge. Arms felt the pump by the top but managed to keep it under control. Fantastic route. High in the grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb battle from start to finish. Had to fight to get onto the ledge. Arms felt the pump by the top but managed to keep it under control. Fantastic route. High in the grade |
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| Fakey Rocks | 14 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Lots of loose stones at the top. Ask belayer to stand well back after you do mantle to exit the meat of the route. Chossy for a few scrambly metres from there to the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose stones at the top. Ask belayer to stand well back after you do mantle to exit the meat of the route. Chossy for a few scrambly metres from there to the top. |
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| Amberrosebrown | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Pumpy! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pumpy! |
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| stevelismore | 2 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Top out is very loose so don\'t call \"safe\" until you\'ve got a belay set up! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top out is very loose so don't call "safe" until you've got a belay set up! |
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| stevelismore | 2 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Top out is very loose so don\'t call \"safe\" until you\'ve got a belay set up! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top out is very loose so don't call "safe" until you've got a belay set up! |
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| Paul Tomo | 4 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: When i first looked at it i thought this is going to be a hard route to do, there is lots of gear if you need it and plenty of rest spots as well, Excellent route and i think it is in the higher grade of the VS. Paul Tomo | ||
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βeta: When i first looked at it i thought this is going to be a hard route to do, there is lots of gear if you need it and plenty of rest spots as well, Excellent route and i think it is in the higher grade of the VS. Paul Tomo |
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| GrahamD | 12 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: A good honest VS with good gear and good variety. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good honest VS with good gear and good variety. |
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| Matt_b | 5 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Good gear, good rests, good VS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good gear, good rests, good VS. |
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| helix | 31 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: sustained excellent top-of-the-grade VS 4c+. i found some v good jugs hidden away in the crack, and used plenty of lay-backing more than jamming. a quality climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: sustained excellent top-of-the-grade VS 4c+. i found some v good jugs hidden away in the crack, and used plenty of lay-backing more than jamming. a quality climb. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Laybacking on good holds, and some good jams to save on strength plus a no hands rest between the "hard" bits. A great pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Laybacking on good holds, and some good jams to save on strength plus a no hands rest between the "hard" bits. A great pitch. |
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| shaun walby | 24 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Good pro where you need it, a bit of jamming mostly laybacking. Good rest's..good crack climb at the grade but definately higher end VS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good pro where you need it, a bit of jamming mostly laybacking. Good rest's..good crack climb at the grade but definately higher end VS. |
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| Vics | 13 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Found Portland Street no harder? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found Portland Street no harder? |
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| Albie | 2 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Definately top of the grade. A must do climb for anybody pushing their grade. If you can lead this and Fern Crack [Stanage] you should be a HVS contender. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definately top of the grade. A must do climb for anybody pushing their grade. If you can lead this and Fern Crack [Stanage] you should be a HVS contender. |
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| Robo | 28 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Great route. Encourages thuggy heaving and gruntoing though. try to avoid showering stones on your second at the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Encourages thuggy heaving and gruntoing though. try to avoid showering stones on your second at the top. |
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| Different Steve | 7 Jan, 2002 |
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βeta: Sustained VS climbing but somewhat easier than it's rather daunting appearance. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sustained VS climbing but somewhat easier than it's rather daunting appearance. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Byne's Crack
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Burbage South Edge)