Rockfax Description
The sustained right-angled groove is quite hard at the grade, though protection is excellent. Beware the dusty shelving top. © Rockfax
FAA. Pete Biven, Trevor Peck early 1950s (at A3!) FFA. Joe Brown 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Adele & Dave , Millstone Edge , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , To do , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fakey Rocks | 14 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose stones at the top. Ask belayer to stand well back after you do mantle to exit the meat of the route. Chossy for a few scrambly metres from there to the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose stones at the top. Ask belayer to stand well back after you do mantle to exit the meat of the route. Chossy for a few scrambly metres from there to the top. |
||||
| Amberrosebrown | 20 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy! |
||||
| stevelismore | 2 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top out is very loose so don\'t call \"safe\" until you\'ve got a belay set up! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Top out is very loose so don't call "safe" until you've got a belay set up! |
||||
| stevelismore | 2 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top out is very loose so don\'t call \"safe\" until you\'ve got a belay set up! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Top out is very loose so don't call "safe" until you've got a belay set up! |
||||
| Paul Tomo | 4 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: When i first looked at it i thought this is going to be a hard route to do, there is lots of gear if you need it and plenty of rest spots as well, Excellent route and i think it is in the higher grade of the VS. Paul Tomo | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: When i first looked at it i thought this is going to be a hard route to do, there is lots of gear if you need it and plenty of rest spots as well, Excellent route and i think it is in the higher grade of the VS. Paul Tomo |
||||
| GrahamD | 12 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good honest VS with good gear and good variety. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A good honest VS with good gear and good variety. |
||||
| Matt_b | 5 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good gear, good rests, good VS. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good gear, good rests, good VS. |
||||
| helix | 31 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: sustained excellent top-of-the-grade VS 4c+. i found some v good jugs hidden away in the crack, and used plenty of lay-backing more than jamming. a quality climb. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: sustained excellent top-of-the-grade VS 4c+. i found some v good jugs hidden away in the crack, and used plenty of lay-backing more than jamming. a quality climb. |
||||
| Jon Greengrass | 25 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Laybacking on good holds, and some good jams to save on strength plus a no hands rest between the "hard" bits. A great pitch. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Laybacking on good holds, and some good jams to save on strength plus a no hands rest between the "hard" bits. A great pitch. |
||||
| shaun walby | 24 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good pro where you need it, a bit of jamming mostly laybacking. Good rest's..good crack climb at the grade but definately higher end VS. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good pro where you need it, a bit of jamming mostly laybacking. Good rest's..good crack climb at the grade but definately higher end VS. |
||||
| Vics | 13 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found Portland Street no harder? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Found Portland Street no harder? |
||||
| Albie | 2 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definately top of the grade. A must do climb for anybody pushing their grade. If you can lead this and Fern Crack [Stanage] you should be a HVS contender. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Definately top of the grade. A must do climb for anybody pushing their grade. If you can lead this and Fern Crack [Stanage] you should be a HVS contender. |
||||
| Robo | 28 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Encourages thuggy heaving and gruntoing though. try to avoid showering stones on your second at the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Encourages thuggy heaving and gruntoing though. try to avoid showering stones on your second at the top. |
||||
| Different Steve | 7 Jan, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sustained VS climbing but somewhat easier than it's rather daunting appearance. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Sustained VS climbing but somewhat easier than it's rather daunting appearance. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The File
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Higgar Tor)