UKC

Restricted Access

Please speak to the NTS warden who lives on the island before climbing, for the latest information on climbing areas with nesting birds. There are a large number of nesting birds on the Great Arch (Arch Deacon is currently covered in birds) and North Pillar and climbers have been asked to refrain from climbing here (June 2024). 

Please refarin from the routes on  "Guarsay Mor" and "Lower cobweb wall " from May to July due to large numbers of birds on these routes, please for advice talk to warden in residence .

140m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
140m. A total adventure that is a must-do. It describes a wonderful arc across the roof of the arch, initially above the serried ranks of the guillemot colony, and then above space. Starts from partway down the ramp at a sloping ledge and to the left of the start of the huge arch.
1. 30m 4c Step across the top of the slot geo and climb up the centre of the wall towards an overlap via a shallow groove. Move right under the overlap until possible to climb through it, pulling leftwards on jugs. Traverse up and right to a browny-coloured 'perch' between overhangs.
2. 45m 5a Go right around the back of an undercut recess and gain an immaculate band of pink rock that offers spacewalking along the lip of the huge arch with an overhang above and a yawning abyss below. Once past the overhang, gain a horizontal rail and take a hanging stance. Take care with rope drag.
3. 10m 4c Traverse the rail 3m right and enter a small hanging groove. Up this to a good ledge.
4. 35m 4a Climb more or less direct to an overhanging exit.
FA M.Tighe, K.Tighe, 2 May 1997 © Rockfax

FA. M.Tighe, S.McNeil, J.McCall Apr/1997.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , HVS Adventures , Ultimate HVS ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Gliss Mission , 4 Star Scottish rock , Pabbay and Mingulay , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Atlantic Drum

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sandray)

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