Rockfax Description
III, 215m. A brilliant little route that packs a surprise near the top! It features excellent pitches in both slabs and cracks of varying sizes. Start by scrambling up to a belay on the starting ledge of the Salluard Route.
1) 6a+, 45m. Climb up and then cross the couloir right of the belay level with a bolt and flake. Climb this and the crack system above to a roof and pass this on the right and follow the crack above.
2) 6b, 45m. Climb the large flake left of the belay using the wide crack. Pass a bolt and another wide crack to easier grooves above that trend leftwards above.
3) 6c+, 25m. The crux if you don't like slabs! Follow the bolted slab, first left, then right before following a crack and flake system left to the belay.
4) 6c+, 35m. The crux if you don't like cracks! Follow the finger crack left of the belay that gradually becomes hand-sized. Cross leftwards after 15m to join another crack system. Pass a roof on the left to the belay.
5) 6b+, 40m. Head up towards the ominous looking roof by parallel cracks on the left then trend rightwards towards the corner. Follow the crack in the corner that gradually widens. Once larger than hand sized three bolts provide protection. Follow this through a small hole to a ledge and belay on the right.
6) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall of knobs above the belay onto the ridge crest. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two nice crack pitches (F6a,F5c) lead up to the slab, which, at F6c is the crux if you can climb cracks. The next pitch is "The Pitch", Fr6c, finger-locks, hand jams, smears. An amazing pitch which is the crux if you can climb slabs...

The penultimate pitch is spectacular and sustained at F6b and the finaly pitch is quite ludicrous but easier up the arete. Abseil descent.


Mont Blanc Super Cracks


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Guidebooks for Mont Blanc du Tacul

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High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Route

Grade: ED1 6c ***
(Aiguille de Pierre Joseph)

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