II, 270m, 2 - 3 hours. Another popular route which takes the direct line up the middle of the face.1) Climb the lower snow slope which steepens to around 65 degrees near the top and is often hard ice. 2) Move left to reach the foot of the central icefield and climb this initially on the left before gradually drifting back right. 3) Once underneath the final rocky buttress, traverse right to meet the top of the Chéré Couloir. Either abseil down this or continue up the mixed ridge to reach the top of the Triangle. Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax
A Contamine and P Mazeaud 21/Jul/1963.
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