III, 185m. One of the most famous mixed routes on the Tacul's East Face, this is a true winter gem. The climbing is superb and the ambiance amazing. The bergschrund is straightforward but can be wide in late season. The couloir itself is usually (depending on snow cover) around 55 degrees all the way but steepens gradually for the final 100m. Depending on conditions it may be worth pitching the final section if time allows. The first proper belay is on the right, just out of the fall line from the first technical pitch.
1) 3, 40m. Traverse left and climb the 70 degree ice gully and belay on the left beneath another, marginally steeper gully.
2) 3+, 30m. Stay left and continue up the ice gully, trying not to knock down too much onto your partner and/or other climbers - the gully makes a perfect funnel.
3) 4, 30m. The gully kicks up to close to vertical before easing off to reach a snow slope. Belay at the foot of this.
4) 2, 40m. Climb the snow slope easily, passing a couple of optional intermediate belays.
5) 4+, 45m. The crux of this one is where it should be on every route - at the top! Follow the gully up some steep and sometimes thin ice to a belay on the right, overlooking the snow slope on pitch 4. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This gully is the the classic East face route of the Tacul. About 500m to the top of the main difficulties (where most people abseil off - fixed belays), about 700m to the top.
Jean-Pierre Albinoni, Patrick Gabarrou 04/Jul/1974.
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