V, 700m. A dangerous route which was popular in decades past before glacial changes made it unreasonable for most climbers. It has seen only very occasional ascents since the turn of the millennium but it remains a sought after ski descent for a select few with the skills. General consensus is that the line is best photographed rather than climbed these days! Cross the bergschrund and climb the couloir, picking the best snow and lowest angle, generally found smack in the middle or on the right. The couloir steepens gradually all the way, beginning at 45 degrees and gradually rising up to 55 degrees near the top. Exit rightwards and emerge just below the summit of the Tacul itself.
Descent - Top out just to the east of the Tacul summit, continue up to this and then descend Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face. The other routes are abseiled using fixed anchors preferably on 2 x 60m ropes but there are other belays if required. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The big obvious gully, RH exit up seracs is steeper
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