Rockfax Description
III, 230m. The second most popular route on this buttress includes some brilliant climbing - this is a great route taking an unlikely line up the middle of the face. Start 5m to the right of the lowest part of the rock.
1) 5c, Follow pitch 1 and 2 of the Contamine.
2) 5c, Step left off the belay and climb round to the left following a crack before heading right over a roof on the right to a belay.
3) 5c, Climb the superb left-leaning crack above. A fantastic pitch.
4) 6a, Move right off the belay and follow the crack to the foot of the crux.
5) 6b, The parallel cracks above the belay lead (after 10m) to some large flakes. Climb these (easier than the parallel cracks) to belay on the right, below slabbier ground.
6) 5b, Climb the slab via a series of cracks and pass rightwards of a small overhang to a well-positioned belay.
7) 5b, Keep following cracks and then a corner that allows you to rejoin the Contamine.
8) Follow the last two pitches of the Contamine. © Rockfax
A Contamine, P Labrunie, R Wohlschlag 30/Aug/1959.
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Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seán Fortune | 9 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax descriptions are all over the place for the first and last couple of pitches- essentially just follow your nose is the best description, most of it is similar grade wise. For first pitch we followed the right hand of 2 cracks just right of the rounded arete giving lovely jamming, and stepping left around the arete to a belay at around 25/30 metres. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax descriptions are all over the place for the first and last couple of pitches- essentially just follow your nose is the best description, most of it is similar grade wise. For first pitch we followed the right hand of 2 cracks just right of the rounded arete giving lovely jamming, and stepping left around the arete to a belay at around 25/30 metres. |
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| mic.snow | 5 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The enormous room-sized flake at the end of P6 looks extremely precarious. It's completely detached from the wall and yet somehow stays in place for the moment. You kinda have to use it, but we didn't really dare to put much weight on it. A good push might drop it, so take care! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The enormous room-sized flake at the end of P6 looks extremely precarious. It's completely detached from the wall and yet somehow stays in place for the moment. You kinda have to use it, but we didn't really dare to put much weight on it. A good push might drop it, so take care! |
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Tsarmania
Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Aiguille de Blaitière)