UKC

100m.

Rockfax Description
II, 100m, 2 hours. A fun traverse with one tricky rock/mixed pitch.
1) Climb the 40 degree snow slope between the southeast and middle summits. The southeast summit itself is a 5 minute detour but it is worth visiting for the stomach-churning view down the South Face. Retrace your steps to the top of the snow slope and follow the crest of the ridge to reach the rocks of the central summit.
2) Climb these on the north side initially before reclimbing onto the ridge and following this with some exposed but easy moves to reach the central summit. Descend on the south side for 3m to reach a bolted belay on an exposed ledge.
3) Make a 30m abseil (or a 20m and then 10m) down the North Face and then traverse the exposed snow slope for 20m to reach the aesthetic snow ridge linking the central and main summits. Follow this to the foot of the rock buttress and the crux pitch.
4) 3. The crux is easier than it initially looks but there is some loose rock and it requires care. Climb initially on the left before moving right after 10m and following the vague chimney system. This steepens near the top but the holds become increasingly positive and the climbing enjoyable. Belay on blocks above the chimney. If completely dry, the crux can be dangerously loose and it can be avoided by making a long traverse around the north side of the main summit's rock buttress to reach the snow slope leading to the summit.
5) Follow the snow slope easily to reach the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Intro to Alpine , Alpine Progression , Summer easier alpine , Neonatal Alpinist 2023 , Fredventures Alps 24 , Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ashkc64 28 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Good bolts on the rappelling now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good bolts on the rappelling now.
charlesisbozo 24 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Might be possible to downclimb steep snow rather than make a second ab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Might be possible to downclimb steep snow rather than make a second ab.
Goran Glumac 11 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock
Everetta 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rappel down there north face not over the ridge as I saw a team doing. It’s about a 30-35 rappel but there is some tat half way so very possible with 50m rope.
Show beta
βeta: Rappel down there north face not over the ridge as I saw a team doing. It’s about a 30-35 rappel but there is some tat half way so very possible with 50m rope.
Matt Boyd 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The 32m abseil is definitely 32m ???? had to solo down to the tat anchor, which was also atrocious, given the decent rock surrounding it a bolt would have been much more at home.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 32m abseil is definitely 32m ???? had to solo down to the tat anchor, which was also atrocious, given the decent rock surrounding it a bolt would have been much more at home.

Logged Ascents

942 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Mont Blanc du Tacul

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 170 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 61
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
High 1
Mid 1
Low 1
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Les Courtes Traverse

Grade: AD 2 ***
(Les Courtes)

Loading Notifications...