Rockfax Description
III, 500m. Probably the best route here but tough to find in condition. Without ice it is all but impossible so make sure it is fat before attempting it.
1) Follow Madness Trés Mince to where it branches off left.
2) Instead of going left, continue up the gully, moving gradually rightwards up three short ice pitches to the foot of a steep (hopefully!) ice-filled corner.
3) Climb the icy corner (crux) to a belay on the left.
4) Three long, sustained 70 - 80 degree ice pitches lead to a small brèche on the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
[Damilano: III 5] Cross the bergschrund and climb the gully that breaks left out of Kollop Couloir (150m at 60°). Where Madness splits of L, climb straight up for several pitches (thin ice and mixed), including a diversion L out of main gully line, to below the continuation gully line splitting the headwall. Climb the steep gully (vertical for 5m, crux) About six pitches (70°/80°) to the skyline ridge. 550m. Abseil down route

Jean-Franck Charlet & Rene Ghilini 10/May/1979.


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Route of Interest

Grade: ED1 7a ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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