III, 500m. An excellent name for an excellent route!
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb 50 degree snow for 75m to reach the foot of the icy gully.
2) Follow this for 100m, up 60 degree ice, before branching left to a deep gully.
3) Climb the gully (sustained 65/70 degree ice with short 80 degree steps) and exit up a mixed pitch.
4) Climb the easy snowfield to a belay on the left beneath a wall.
5) The wall is steep and thin but there is good gear where you need it most, including a couple of pegs.
6) Three shorter and easier (but still interesting) mixed pitches lead to the brèche. Take in the view before abseiling down. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
[Damilano: III 5] Cross the bergschrund and climb the gully that breaks left out of Kollop Couloir (150m at 60°). Climb a series of 3 gullies on the left (65°,70°,80°) a pitch of mixed climbing and a 50° snow gully lead to the crux: a steep pitch of very thin ice (80°/90°). Three more ice steps (75°, then 70°) and a short rock section lead to the summit. Final couple of pitches can be dry-tooled in absence of ice. 550m. Abseil down route.
Jean-Pierre Delettre, Eric Carquillat & Godefroy Perroux 08/May/1980.
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