UKC

170m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+. Although it can be reached from above by four abseils (35m, 25m, 35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping) to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via the Cala del Testos if required) then traverse to the start of the route.
1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab.
2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay.
3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar.
4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge.
5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance.
5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope.
6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa B , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
lithos 27 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Best not to abseil down the line on a busy day, (or at all) the approach via Barranca adds to the whole day out and avoids any possibility of stonefall and traffic jams
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best not to abseil down the line on a busy day, (or at all) the approach via Barranca adds to the whole day out and avoids any possibility of stonefall and traffic jams
FerClimbs 9 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Route starts when you see the first bolt (painted on red) at the bottom of the easy slab (we started scrambling it without realising we were on the route!). It goes straight diagonally right. Ignore the route going up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route starts when you see the first bolt (painted on red) at the bottom of the easy slab (we started scrambling it without realising we were on the route!). It goes straight diagonally right. Ignore the route going up.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amor Brujo

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sax (Cabreras))

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