Rockfax Description
A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+. Although it can be reached from above by four abseils (35m, 25m, 35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping) to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via the Cala del Testos if required) then traverse to the start of the route.1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab. 2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay. 3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar. 4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge. 5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance. 5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope.6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Costa B , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca Mountain Adventures
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tonyaitch | 7 Jan |
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βeta: Another shout out for the last pitch variation finish, Moorhoun Winter Edition. Sustained but very enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Another shout out for the last pitch variation finish, Moorhoun Winter Edition. Sustained but very enjoyable. |
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| Alison Cairns | 31 Dec, 2024 |
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βeta: The superb 40m 6a pitch 'Moorhuhn Winter Edition' gives a much better finish to this route IMO - better protected and although more sustained not actually any harder than the crux of the supposedly 5c original finish. You need 13 or 14 quickdraws for this pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The superb 40m 6a pitch 'Moorhuhn Winter Edition' gives a much better finish to this route IMO - better protected and although more sustained not actually any harder than the crux of the supposedly 5c original finish. You need 13 or 14 quickdraws for this pitch. |
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| Alison Cairns | 31 Dec, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Courtesy of Mark Eddy's excellent book 'Costa Blanca Mountain Adventures' (Cicerone - go buy it!) there is now a much better way to get from the top of the route at Morro Falqui to the start of the Barranco de Testos courtesy of a super new Senderismo Local which has been constructed along that section of coast. There is parking at either of these points - we preferred to get all the walking out of the way at the start so parked at Morro Falqui. Instructions: From the end of the dead end lane at Morro Falqui follow the signpost towards Cala de Testos (south, ie to the right if facing the sea). This leads down through woods into a valley, then emerges on a road by some garages. Turn left here - downhill at first then uphill round a bend. At a junction look for the path on the left (green & white SL marking) which follows the wall around the hillside before descending quite steeply into the head of the barranc. Scramble down the barranc, passing two steep and very slippery sections with the aid of knotted ropes. Just before the third of these follow a small path leftwards (there is a black fixed hand cable visible at the start of it). Follow this along and then down, then look for the (currently very faded) red spots leading up the steep rather rubbly slope, just before reaching the flat rocks at the end of the descent. There is a large red circle and a single bolt belay by a small ledge at the start of the climbing on the first pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Courtesy of Mark Eddy's excellent book 'Costa Blanca Mountain Adventures' (Cicerone - go buy it!) there is now a much better way to get from the top of the route at Morro Falqui to the start of the Barranco de Testos courtesy of a super new Senderismo Local which has been constructed along that section of coast. There is parking at either of these points - we preferred to get all the walking out of the way at the start so parked at Morro Falqui. Instructions: From the end of the dead end lane at Morro Falqui follow the signpost towards Cala de Testos (south, ie to the right if facing the sea). This leads down through woods into a valley, then emerges on a road by some garages. Turn left here - downhill at first then uphill round a bend. At a junction look for the path on the left (green & white SL marking) which follows the wall around the hillside before descending quite steeply into the head of the barranc. Scramble down the barranc, passing two steep and very slippery sections with the aid of knotted ropes. Just before the third of these follow a small path leftwards (there is a black fixed hand cable visible at the start of it). Follow this along and then down, then look for the (currently very faded) red spots leading up the steep rather rubbly slope, just before reaching the flat rocks at the end of the descent. There is a large red circle and a single bolt belay by a small ledge at the start of the climbing on the first pitch. |
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| lithos | 14 Dec, 2024 |
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βeta: Best not to abseil down the line on a busy day, (or at all) the approach via Barranca adds to the whole day out and avoids any possibility of stonefall and traffic jams Last pitch needs about 13 clips and sling draws are useful for drag reduction. Other pitches need 8 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Best not to abseil down the line on a busy day, (or at all) the approach via Barranca adds to the whole day out and avoids any possibility of stonefall and traffic jams Last pitch needs about 13 clips and sling draws are useful for drag reduction. Other pitches need 8 |
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| FerClimbs | 9 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Route starts when you see the first bolt (painted on red) at the bottom of the easy slab (we started scrambling it without realising we were on the route!). It goes straight diagonally right. Ignore the route going up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Route starts when you see the first bolt (painted on red) at the bottom of the easy slab (we started scrambling it without realising we were on the route!). It goes straight diagonally right. Ignore the route going up. |
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Logged Ascents
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Sinfonie Für Simi
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Bolulla- Raco Roig)