UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
A popular photogenic route up the left arete of the Diedre Sud corner. It can be split at a belay on the arete. Start from a hanging belay, below a short groove, in the lower left side of the arete. Climb the groove and slabby wall above to reach a ledge on the arete (possible belay). Climb the wall just right of the arete then pull up steeply to gain some cracks above. Follow these and the arete above to finish. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead May/1976.

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User Date Notes
Patrick Boothman 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Before 1st August we abseiled down the front face onto a small barnacle covered rock seperated from the crag proper by a narrow trench. An hour and a half after low tide (tide was 2.74m and 6.6m) not much swell. Feet got wet stepping across trench but all was fine. Good fun solo traverse above sea level on barnacle covered jugs to bottom of Diedre Sud. Did 1st pitch of Snozwanger, 2nd pitch Blowin in the wind. By the time we got to the top the barnacle covered rock was under water.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Before 1st August we abseiled down the front face onto a small barnacle covered rock seperated from the crag proper by a narrow trench. An hour and a half after low tide (tide was 2.74m and 6.6m) not much swell. Feet got wet stepping across trench but all was fine. Good fun solo traverse above sea level on barnacle covered jugs to bottom of Diedre Sud. Did 1st pitch of Snozwanger, 2nd pitch Blowin in the wind. By the time we got to the top the barnacle covered rock was under water.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Rock Idol

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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