UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

24m.

Rockfax Description
A real struggle for most up the steep corner - well worth seeking out though. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin Sep/1972.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Wales Trip - 2022

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User Date Notes
Ariegeois 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: fyi, Charenton was the name of the Paris lunatic asylum in which the Marquis de Sade was incarcerated during the revolutionary period. I first saw this crack on one of my earliest visits (1968/9) to Mowing Word with Mortlock . We soloed down Square Chimney to the tidal platform, saw this, and thought "Wow - that should be on Curbar!" On the first ascent, the crack was only intermittently open, and much of it was fretted over with flowstone. It was very hard as an onsight ascent, at least a couple of grades harder than it is now. My fingers were cut to ribbons and the crack covered in blood. I thought it the hardest thing I'd ever led and I was climbing well at the time. When I went back to repeat it some time later, I was amazed at the difference. Someone had hacked away the flowstone fretting and left the crack as you now find it. The same thing happened to routes on the White Sheet - abseil down, hack away with the spike of your peg hammer, and you get usable cracks where once there was absolute smoothness and lancet edges. Hey ho! First ascent ethics in those days were less clear than they later became, few ever came to Pembroke then, and what people did was out of the public eye.
Show beta
βeta: fyi, Charenton was the name of the Paris lunatic asylum in which the Marquis de Sade was incarcerated during the revolutionary period. I first saw this crack on one of my earliest visits (1968/9) to Mowing Word with Mortlock . We soloed down Square Chimney to the tidal platform, saw this, and thought "Wow - that should be on Curbar!" On the first ascent, the crack was only intermittently open, and much of it was fretted over with flowstone. It was very hard as an onsight ascent, at least a couple of grades harder than it is now. My fingers were cut to ribbons and the crack covered in blood. I thought it the hardest thing I'd ever led and I was climbing well at the time. When I went back to repeat it some time later, I was amazed at the difference. Someone had hacked away the flowstone fretting and left the crack as you now find it. The same thing happened to routes on the White Sheet - abseil down, hack away with the spike of your peg hammer, and you get usable cracks where once there was absolute smoothness and lancet edges. Hey ho! First ascent ethics in those days were less clear than they later became, few ever came to Pembroke then, and what people did was out of the public eye.
PaulTanton 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The initial section off the ledge is pumps but it soon eases. Really good climbing on perfect gear, but don’t stop to place too much ????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The initial section off the ledge is pumps but it soon eases. Really good climbing on perfect gear, but don’t stop to place too much ????

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strait Gate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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