This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
Follow All at Sea to the break, then trend right across the wall to a square-cut hole below the roof. Pull over with great difficulty (a stopper move for some) then move right to gain a long finishing crack which is still tiring. © Rockfax
FA. R.Harrison, D.Carter 06/Aug/1983.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Ian Milward | 26 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found the roof very blind, the route goes exactly as per the Rockfax diagram but it is a lo-ong reach for a hard-to-find layaway to enable the pull over. Judging by the bale-out tat in the square hole, it is a regular stopper! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found the roof very blind, the route goes exactly as per the Rockfax diagram but it is a lo-ong reach for a hard-to-find layaway to enable the pull over. Judging by the bale-out tat in the square hole, it is a regular stopper! |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stackpole Head)