38m, 2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
Best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable first pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre Sud.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse right for 5m then climb up steeply to reach a shallow corner. Follow it to a small ledge on the left. Continue over a bulge, and the groove above, to reach the line of breaks. Move up to another break and traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 5b, 18m. Move rightwards up a flake to gain the fine wide crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, J.Greenland 11/Aug/1971.
Ticklists
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tony Holdsworth | 17 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: E1 without a doubt. A HVS leader would be have a pretty torrid time of it on P2. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: E1 without a doubt. A HVS leader would be have a pretty torrid time of it on P2. |
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Route of Interest
Wishful Thinking
Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Castle)