Restricted Access
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
2022 update - Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
This excellent climb for those who have just enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Follow Heart of Darkness to the traverse line then climb up until it is possible to move left into the bottomless corner above the big roof. Climb the exposed corner to the top. © Rockfax
FA. R.Burns, J.Jones Apr/1976.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Tall Oak | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: An epic way to finish up after a wee incident / rescue on Heart of Darkness. Kudos to Coney, Matt and Andy for calm nerves and clubbing together. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An epic way to finish up after a wee incident / rescue on Heart of Darkness. Kudos to Coney, Matt and Andy for calm nerves and clubbing together. |
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| bruce | 10 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Superb route, found route finding above start of HOD. tricky with a couple of steep pulls then classic bottomless groove above. | ||
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βeta: Superb route, found route finding above start of HOD. tricky with a couple of steep pulls then classic bottomless groove above. |
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| Jus | 22 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: I can't recommend this route enough. Just brilliant. Has some small holds but buckets are never far away. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I can't recommend this route enough. Just brilliant. Has some small holds but buckets are never far away. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mowing Word
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The Arrow
Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)