UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

33m.

Rockfax Description
A tidy bit of climbing to the right of Cormorant Flake. Climb the lower juggy wall to a crack, and follow this, moving gradually leftwards to finish a few metres right of the previous route. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock, S.Williams 29/May/1967.

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , Beginners Pembroke , Pembs Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
LakesWinter 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy for the grade.
Siongethinhill 25 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Watch for loose blocks at the top of cormorant crack. Better to ab off the wall between Seal rather than the crack itself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch for loose blocks at the top of cormorant crack. Better to ab off the wall between Seal rather than the crack itself.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 59
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bird on a Wire

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Strata Walls)

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