From a standing start on undercuts move up and left to the vague crack and finish on the big jug unless you fancy a highball finish on big holds.
Bob Dickinson/Frank Dawson Apr/1986.
Ticklists
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Betajunkie | 4 May |
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βeta: The big broken footholds has gone now so obviously people where climbing on it. You will have to do it the proper way now as you should have anyway. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The big broken footholds has gone now so obviously people where climbing on it. You will have to do it the proper way now as you should have anyway. |
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| Betajunkie | 30 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Please stay off the broken big footholds as to carry on using these could damage the problem beyond repair. The problem climbs totally different using these. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Please stay off the broken big footholds as to carry on using these could damage the problem beyond repair. The problem climbs totally different using these. |
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| The Wheel Thing | 19 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Looks like fire damage has lead to a flake coming off, creating a big incut foothold. It is very hollow and brittle so best to not be used. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Looks like fire damage has lead to a flake coming off, creating a big incut foothold. It is very hollow and brittle so best to not be used. |
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| Betajunkie | 22 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Some history of the first ascent. Just to update my earlier notes from today re. 'Heart of Darkness' having checked with my climbing buddy back then, Frank Dawson. Frank had started exploring Nearcliff Wood the year before (1985) and drew my attention to what now is the Hueco Boulder. We started visiting the Boulder in '86. We initially tackled what became 'Heart of Darkness' with a top-rope, successfully, and then Frank led with one-point of aid. The route at that point was christened by Frank, 'Freewheeler' as we had driven from Scunthorpe to Consiborough in Frank's Reliant Robin. I then returned on my own and started bouldering out the route over a few weekends, no bouldering mats (not around at that time) just chalk and a pair of old Boreal Fires. Gradually after climbing up, jumping off until that was no longer safe, I eventually topped out having completed the route free. It felt hard and serious at the time. I was 31 years old. On a visit to Stoney and after having climbed a few routes there with Frank, recorded it in the old Stoney routes book as 'Heart of darkness' named after the novel by Joseph Conrad. There were no sport climb grades in use at the time and so gave it an English technical grade of 6b. We also bouldered out a few other routes and also explored a few other bits of rock in the area but did'nt record any route names against them apart from this one, 'Heart of Darkness'. So, that's the story behind the climb. Reason I've sent it in as a few videos of young guns sending the route have appeared on YouTube which took me back to those days back in '86. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Some history of the first ascent. Just to update my earlier notes from today re. 'Heart of Darkness' having checked with my climbing buddy back then, Frank Dawson. Frank had started exploring Nearcliff Wood the year before (1985) and drew my attention to what now is the Hueco Boulder. We started visiting the Boulder in '86. We initially tackled what became 'Heart of Darkness' with a top-rope, successfully, and then Frank led with one-point of aid. The route at that point was christened by Frank, 'Freewheeler' as we had driven from Scunthorpe to Consiborough in Frank's Reliant Robin. I then returned on my own and started bouldering out the route over a few weekends, no bouldering mats (not around at that time) just chalk and a pair of old Boreal Fires. Gradually after climbing up, jumping off until that was no longer safe, I eventually topped out having completed the route free. It felt hard and serious at the time. I was 31 years old. On a visit to Stoney and after having climbed a few routes there with Frank, recorded it in the old Stoney routes book as 'Heart of darkness' named after the novel by Joseph Conrad. There were no sport climb grades in use at the time and so gave it an English technical grade of 6b. We also bouldered out a few other routes and also explored a few other bits of rock in the area but did'nt record any route names against them apart from this one, 'Heart of Darkness'. So, that's the story behind the climb. Reason I've sent it in as a few videos of young guns sending the route have appeared on YouTube which took me back to those days back in '86. |
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Route of Interest
Pet Cemetery
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Mother Cap and Quarry)