UKC

From a standing start on undercuts move up and left to the vague crack and finish on the big jug unless you fancy a highball finish on big holds.

Bob Dickinson/Frank Dawson Apr/1986.

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Betajunkie 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Some history of the first ascent. Just to update my earlier notes from today re. 'Heart of Darkness' having checked with my climbing buddy back then, Frank Dawson. Frank had started exploring Nearcliff Wood the year before (1985) and drew my attention to what now is the Hueco Boulder. We started visiting the Boulder in '86. We initially tackled what became 'Heart of Darkness' with a top-rope, successfully, and then Frank led with one-point of aid. The route at that point was christened by Frank, 'Freewheeler' as we had driven from Scunthorpe to Consiborough in Frank's Reliant Robin. I then returned on my own and started bouldering out the route over a few weekends, no bouldering mats (not around at that time) just chalk and a pair of old Boreal Fires. Gradually after climbing up, jumping off until that was no longer safe, I eventually topped out having completed the route free. It felt hard and serious at the time. I was 31 years old. On a visit to Stoney and after having climbed a few routes there with Frank, recorded it in the old Stoney routes book as 'Heart of darkness' named after the novel by Joseph Conrad. There were no sport climb grades in use at the time and so gave it an English technical grade of 6b. We also bouldered out a few other routes and also explored a few other bits of rock in the area but did'nt record any route names against them apart from this one, 'Heart of Darkness'. So, that's the story behind the climb. Reason I've sent it in as a few videos of young guns sending the route have appeared on YouTube which took me back to those days back in '86.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some history of the first ascent. Just to update my earlier notes from today re. 'Heart of Darkness' having checked with my climbing buddy back then, Frank Dawson. Frank had started exploring Nearcliff Wood the year before (1985) and drew my attention to what now is the Hueco Boulder. We started visiting the Boulder in '86. We initially tackled what became 'Heart of Darkness' with a top-rope, successfully, and then Frank led with one-point of aid. The route at that point was christened by Frank, 'Freewheeler' as we had driven from Scunthorpe to Consiborough in Frank's Reliant Robin. I then returned on my own and started bouldering out the route over a few weekends, no bouldering mats (not around at that time) just chalk and a pair of old Boreal Fires. Gradually after climbing up, jumping off until that was no longer safe, I eventually topped out having completed the route free. It felt hard and serious at the time. I was 31 years old. On a visit to Stoney and after having climbed a few routes there with Frank, recorded it in the old Stoney routes book as 'Heart of darkness' named after the novel by Joseph Conrad. There were no sport climb grades in use at the time and so gave it an English technical grade of 6b. We also bouldered out a few other routes and also explored a few other bits of rock in the area but did'nt record any route names against them apart from this one, 'Heart of Darkness'. So, that's the story behind the climb. Reason I've sent it in as a few videos of young guns sending the route have appeared on YouTube which took me back to those days back in '86.

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Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sphinx

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Burbage North)

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