UKC

7m.

Rockfax Description
This micro-route starts halfway down the descent. Don't be deceived by its length; it packs a lot in. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 10/Aug/1997.

Ticklists

Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Olympian , Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian) , Neddyfields Nexus , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian) , Portland scheming , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22

Feedback

User Date Notes
DeclanCroft 27 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with most. I think the route must have been first climbed onsight and then given that grade. When you can work the moves a bit and get the beta down it goes quite easily if you climb around 6c. I pays to move left and right a bit, go left to good but sharp pockets then right to the second clip. I found the crux right after the last clip before the anchor (the third lol). Tough to work out the feet with my long legs, the bulge of the 'headwall) got in the way of drop knees.
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βeta: I agree with most. I think the route must have been first climbed onsight and then given that grade. When you can work the moves a bit and get the beta down it goes quite easily if you climb around 6c. I pays to move left and right a bit, go left to good but sharp pockets then right to the second clip. I found the crux right after the last clip before the anchor (the third lol). Tough to work out the feet with my long legs, the bulge of the 'headwall) got in the way of drop knees.
m_collings 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The lower section is laced with a knife like flint viciously awaiting an interaction with your left knee. Tried this route almost a year ago and painted an area with my blood. Returned this year and have to apologise for the mess I have made, adding to the blood again but at least I got the send.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The lower section is laced with a knife like flint viciously awaiting an interaction with your left knee. Tried this route almost a year ago and painted an area with my blood. Returned this year and have to apologise for the mess I have made, adding to the blood again but at least I got the send.
Dom Lawrence 16 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Start on good sidepulls, up into some decent crimps. High feet to go for a left pocket and up onto first ledge. Up to another set of good holds on ledges then rest before moving back left through a pocket into two good jugs, get feet high and slap left hand to good jug.
Show beta
βeta: Start on good sidepulls, up into some decent crimps. High feet to go for a left pocket and up onto first ledge. Up to another set of good holds on ledges then rest before moving back left through a pocket into two good jugs, get feet high and slap left hand to good jug.
jimjimmyjimjim 9 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy for 7a, flashed it. I found the 6c next to it much harder.
βeta?
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βeta: Very easy for 7a, flashed it. I found the 6c next to it much harder.
Rob in a Field 27 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: easy 7a, found it easyer than the 6c to the right, nice climb tho
βeta?
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βeta: easy 7a, found it easyer than the 6c to the right, nice climb tho
Lloyders 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: easy for the grade... good route all the same, even if it can get very greasy...
βeta?
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βeta: easy for the grade... good route all the same, even if it can get very greasy...
John Alcock 28 Jan, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: On-sighted it today in damp conditions with a slap at the crus. Seemed fine
βeta?
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βeta: On-sighted it today in damp conditions with a slap at the crus. Seemed fine
airbournegrapefruit 24 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: done this route yesterday and pulled a large lump out, dont think it has changed the grade much, but the bit underneath is going to go soon and that will change the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: done this route yesterday and pulled a large lump out, dont think it has changed the grade much, but the bit underneath is going to go soon and that will change the grade.
Wilbur 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Reachy or dynamic move is the crux after 3rd clip. Can't be 6b as was onsighting 6b this weekend. Got to be at least 6c. I'd go for 6c+...
Show beta
βeta: Reachy or dynamic move is the crux after 3rd clip. Can't be 6b as was onsighting 6b this weekend. Got to be at least 6c. I'd go for 6c+...
BennyBoy 26 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route but an easy tick I feel, I hit this on second attempt but couldnt sort my life ouot on the 6c to the left??
βeta?
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βeta: Nice route but an easy tick I feel, I hit this on second attempt but couldnt sort my life ouot on the 6c to the left??
Richard Horn 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I flashed this after watching someone else climb it - felt like 6c at the most.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I flashed this after watching someone else climb it - felt like 6c at the most.
Ben Thorne 13 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Probably climbed this route in the region of 25 times now but I wouldn't say I find it any easier. Fall off it twice a week without fail. The good holds can lead you too far right and way too many moves off sequence, whereas the undercut method (direct over the bulge) saves valuable time and energy. I'd say solid 6c+, but 7a if onsighting is your cup of tea.
Show beta
βeta: Probably climbed this route in the region of 25 times now but I wouldn't say I find it any easier. Fall off it twice a week without fail. The good holds can lead you too far right and way too many moves off sequence, whereas the undercut method (direct over the bulge) saves valuable time and energy. I'd say solid 6c+, but 7a if onsighting is your cup of tea.
JasonG 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Would agree with ben1 ... 7a to onsight, easier to redpoint.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would agree with ben1 ... 7a to onsight, easier to redpoint.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 168
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
To Wish the Impossible

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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