UKC

From the middle of the wall on the right of Sex and Casual Ties, move up to a pocket and large hold. Crux move through to small pockets. Friable finish

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes , Ultimate E5 ticklist , 30 For My 30s

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User Date Notes
Misha 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently there used to be a flake hold and nut placement in the first break. That’s gone now but it goes fine without it. Good large blue cam and decent purple and small silver cams available in that break. The crux is hitting the break above the peg. 120cm aramid sling highly recommended for the huge thread between the vertical pocket things - a normal sling would be hard to poke through on lead.
Show beta
βeta: Apparently there used to be a flake hold and nut placement in the first break. That’s gone now but it goes fine without it. Good large blue cam and decent purple and small silver cams available in that break. The crux is hitting the break above the peg. 120cm aramid sling highly recommended for the huge thread between the vertical pocket things - a normal sling would be hard to poke through on lead.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black is Beautiful

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Llanymynech Quarry)

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