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From the middle of the wall on the right of Sex and Casual Ties, move up to a pocket and large hold. Crux move through to small pockets. Friable finish

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Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes, Ultimate E5 ticklist, 30 For My 30s

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User Date Notes
Misha 5 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Apparently there used to be a flake hold and nut placement in the first break. That’s gone now but it goes fine without it. Good large blue cam and decent purple and small silver cams available in that break. The crux is hitting the break above the peg. 120cm aramid sling highly recommended for the huge thread between the vertical pocket things - a normal sling would be hard to poke through on lead.
 
Show beta
βeta: Apparently there used to be a flake hold and nut placement in the first break. That’s gone now but it goes fine without it. Good large blue cam and decent purple and small silver cams available in that break. The crux is hitting the break above the peg. 120cm aramid sling highly recommended for the huge thread between the vertical pocket things - a normal sling would be hard to poke through on lead.

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Route of Interest

Trouble in Toytown

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Nesscliffe)