Rockfax Description
110m. An audacious ascent! This climbs the largest (left-hand) of two large corner-lines bounding the grey wall. Start on the platform below and right of an overhanging crack.
1. 45m 5c Climb direct over birdy ledges. After about 15m, move left to gain the overhanging crack. Climb this (hard) to reach somewhat easier birdy ground. Ascend another 7m to reach a good ledge.
2. 35m 6a Trend left towards a wide overhanging crack. Climb this to reach a ledge. Step right to climb the wall right of a corner system to a huge roof. Trend left via overhanging cracks in the pegmatite band (crux) which crosses the wall to reach a ledge and good thread belays.
3. 30m 6a Climb straight up, passing small roofs on a slabby wall to gain the final corner. Follow this to the top.
FA R.Witt, J.Fischer, 19 Jun 1995 © Rockfax
Ticklists
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Pabbay Power List of Justice , Crack apprenticeship - Highland North , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Robertgiddy | 19 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Seems a lot of confusion over where to go on p2, the "action shot" in SMC is definitely of a different route and I'm also pretty confident the SMC topo is wrong for several routes on the upper left of this wall. Fairly confident we followed the route as described after a lot of faff and indecision over where to go, which is pretty much the line of 19a on the SMC topo. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Seems a lot of confusion over where to go on p2, the "action shot" in SMC is definitely of a different route and I'm also pretty confident the SMC topo is wrong for several routes on the upper left of this wall. Fairly confident we followed the route as described after a lot of faff and indecision over where to go, which is pretty much the line of 19a on the SMC topo. |
||||
| Alasdair Fulton | 29 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: I really can't fathom the written description in the GL CR & SMC2018 Hebrides guides (same). It basically reads like it finishes more up U-ei or something. As others in below have said, the photo topo is easy to follow and that seems to be the 4* route we've all done and loved. I'd usually side with a written description over photo topo, but for once, I think it's the other way around. Just follow your nose. Splitting it into 4 works but leaves a short 3rd pitch (the awkward traverse). All pitches hard E3, so E4 overall makes sense. Mega route! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I really can't fathom the written description in the GL CR & SMC2018 Hebrides guides (same). It basically reads like it finishes more up U-ei or something. As others in below have said, the photo topo is easy to follow and that seems to be the 4* route we've all done and loved. I'd usually side with a written description over photo topo, but for once, I think it's the other way around. Just follow your nose. Splitting it into 4 works but leaves a short 3rd pitch (the awkward traverse). All pitches hard E3, so E4 overall makes sense. Mega route! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Pabbay
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Barnacle Butter
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Great Bernera)