Rockfax Description
110m. The companion route to Spit in Paradise climbing the general line of the right-hand corner. The right side of this lower wall is slabby and drops into the sea. Start on a small ledge about 3m above the platform just right of a prominent seepage line.
1. 50m 5b Climb the wall on perfect holds for 25m, to step left into a short hanging corner. Follow this corner to a roof. Bottle out left to a comfortable ledge.
2. 30m 5a Climb an easy corner to an overhanging block. Pass the block on the right to gain a ledge and a luxurious belay.
3. 30m 5b From the belay, move up to a roof and traverse right under it to gain the base of a fine overhanging corner system. Climb this and finish by a left-slanting ramp.
FA G.Gantzhorn, S.Wacker, 19 Jun 1995 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The SMC topo is very misleading and totally wrong. Description is accurate (except for P2 length).
Following WiRED topo and description will get you to climb the actual line.
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Pabbay Power List of Justice , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Pabbay and Mingulay , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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trying.soft | 27 May |
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βeta: SMC topo for P2&3 is completely off. The first pitch to the first roof is only 30/35m, not 50, and the belay is to the left on the big ledge, rather than under the first roof. Second pitch isn't 15m but 30, and it doesn't just go to under the second layer of roofs, rather goes up the corner to the rght of the overhanging cracks (U-th). Wired guidebook has the description and topo accurate now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: SMC topo for P2&3 is completely off. The first pitch to the first roof is only 30/35m, not 50, and the belay is to the left on the big ledge, rather than under the first roof. Second pitch isn't 15m but 30, and it doesn't just go to under the second layer of roofs, rather goes up the corner to the rght of the overhanging cracks (U-th). Wired guidebook has the description and topo accurate now. |
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Ciaranunderscoretolan | 22 May, 2022 |
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βeta: For 3rd pitch belay from under the hanging groove rather than the big comfy ledge, rope drag was horrendous | βeta? | |
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βeta: For 3rd pitch belay from under the hanging groove rather than the big comfy ledge, rope drag was horrendous |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Berneray)