Recent conversations with the land owner have indicated that they do not wish individual climbers to access the land. Groups run by a professional instructor will need to contact the landowner, demonstrate insurance and qualifications and make the land owner aware that you'll be visiting the site. The landowner has indicated that a booking system will be available in the coming months.
March 2025, currently we've not heard from the landowner regarding a booking system, for the time being please contact [email protected] who will forward a request to the land owner.
Parking can be an issue. Do not park at the base of the track leading to the crag. Parking should in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Villeta.1) 25m. Move up to the small tree and head rightwards to join Schmutzig midway. Follow a line of good holds right to a belay on large perched block.2) 4a, 20m. Gain a horizontal finger-crack on the slab above the belay. Move right to the edge and swing down via a hidden hold into the corner of Emerald Point. Cross the slab and gain the groove of Banana Boat and finish over its final overhang. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A really enjoyable and escapable girdle across the main slab. Start at the base of the descent gully as for Villeta.
1) Move up to follow the obvious traverse crack rightwards to the grassy crack and further following excellent jugs to belay on the obvious block ledge 15ft below the top.
2) Step up onto the slab above the belay to reach a horizontal finger crack moving right along this to the arĂȘte. A steep swing down right into the grove will prove easier than it looks after finding the hidden hold! Continue right across the slab at the same height to the next arĂȘte which is rounded to finish up a roof crack. (Cicerone)
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