Loading Notifications...

Rockfax Description
Sustained and technical climbing up a fine section of Pavey Ark. The first pitch is run out and the grade has varied from HVS to E2 over the years (consensus now seems to be about E1).
1) 5b, 35m. Climb the lower slab to a holly bush. Move up the steep rib on the left to a flake, then right to a foothold (peg). Some thin moves up slabby rock reach easier ground that leads leftwards to a ledge and tree belay.
2) 5a, 36m. Move right and climb an overlap and corner to a ledge below a right-curving slim overhang. Move rightwards just below this, past a thin section of slab, until a move down reaches a ledge and belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Ascend the arete on the right to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fine climbing, mostly HVS with one short, hard section on the first pitch.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Allan Austin Classics, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, UK Holiday Plans, Lakes HVS, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Pillow 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: did the first pitch of this and abbed off the tree as had to get to pub!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did the first pitch of this and abbed off the tree as had to get to pub!

Logged Ascents

377 users have logged this
68 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 73
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Outside Tokyo/Dight

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gimmer Crag)