UKC Logbook - 'Cruel Sister'

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Exhilarating positions and intense climbing combine to give one of Langdale's finest E3s. Start as for Arcturus.
1) 5b, 33m. Follow Arcturus to the foothold on the main slab. Move up right to gain and climb a shallow groove-line that leads to an overhung horizontal break. Go right to reach a belay under the overhang.
2) 5c, 25m. Go back left under the roof then head back right, pulling over onto the headwall above the roof - committing. Move up to a peg and then, a little higher, head right out to the rib and a block. Move up once again before heading leftwards to a small overlap and crack above. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay shared with Arcturus.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse left and pull over the curving slim overhang to gain and climb a corner to a ledge. Move right and up to another ledge to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The third and hardest mega-classic on this part of the crag. Climbs the wall and slab of Arcturus before breaking out rightwards to tackle the impressive hanging rib via sustained wall climbing, initially quite serious.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes , Bold Tradprenticeship , Three star lakes E3s , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List

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User	Date		Notes
j.anstee	13 Sep	Show βeta βeta: Belay at the top of P1 replaced and cleaned out today. The thread now has a double wrap of 6mm with a Double fisherman’s and is usable size. Much better than the rotten slimey tat that was in place!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Belay at the top of P1 replaced and cleaned out today. The thread now has a double wrap of 6mm with a Double fisherman’s and is usable size. Much better than the rotten slimey tat that was in place!
robmatheson	21 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: On pitch 1 just pull up to jug/flake on initial bulge and climb directly up the wall to the base of the final shallow groove. No need to follow Arcturus at all. On the Main pitch 2, traverse right to the peg, but then climb more or less directly up the wall, rather than traversing out right as guide books would suggest. Holds and runners just keep turning up on this more direct line.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: On pitch 1 just pull up to jug/flake on initial bulge and climb directly up the wall to the base of the final shallow groove. No need to follow Arcturus at all. On the Main pitch 2, traverse right to the peg, but then climb more or less directly up the wall, rather than traversing out right as guide books would suggest. Holds and runners just keep turning up on this more direct line.
Andy Stewart2	3 Oct, 2015	Show βeta βeta: Found the guidebook description for the crux P2 confusing. This may help? Step onto the wall and traverse right to a peg (past it’s sell by date. Rock 6 above). Keep traversing right to a small cracked block (wire) by thought provoking moves using undercuts (crux). From the block go up to better holds trending left to good gear and a steep crack above to a good ledge.
Show beta βeta: Found the guidebook description for the crux P2 confusing. This may help? Step onto the wall and traverse right to a peg (past it’s sell by date. Rock 6 above). Keep traversing right to a small cracked block (wire) by thought provoking moves using undercuts (crux). From the block go up to better holds trending left to good gear and a steep crack above to a good ledge.