UKC

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Exhilarating positions and intense climbing combine to give one of Langdale's finest E3s. Start as for Arcturus.
1) 5b, 33m. Follow Arcturus to the foothold on the main slab. Move up right to gain and climb a shallow groove-line that leads to an overhung horizontal break. Go right to reach a belay under the overhang.
2) 5c, 25m. Go back left under the roof then head back right, pulling over onto the headwall above the roof - committing. Move up to a peg and then, a little higher, head right out to the rib and a block. Move up once again before heading leftwards to a small overlap and crack above. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay shared with Arcturus.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse left and pull over the curving slim overhang to gain and climb a corner to a ledge. Move right and up to another ledge to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The third and hardest mega-classic on this part of the crag. Climbs the wall and slab of Arcturus before breaking out rightwards to tackle the impressive hanging rib via sustained wall climbing, initially quite serious.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes , Bold Tradprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
robmatheson 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: On pitch 1 just pull up to jug/flake on initial bulge and climb directly up the wall to the base of the final shallow groove. No need to follow Arcturus at all. On the Main pitch 2, traverse right to the peg, but then climb more or less directly up the wall, rather than traversing out right as guide books would suggest. Holds and runners just keep turning up on this more direct line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On pitch 1 just pull up to jug/flake on initial bulge and climb directly up the wall to the base of the final shallow groove. No need to follow Arcturus at all. On the Main pitch 2, traverse right to the peg, but then climb more or less directly up the wall, rather than traversing out right as guide books would suggest. Holds and runners just keep turning up on this more direct line.
Andy Stewart2 3 Oct, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Found the guidebook description for the crux P2 confusing. This may help? Step onto the wall and traverse right to a peg (past it’s sell by date. Rock 6 above). Keep traversing right to a small cracked block (wire) by thought provoking moves using undercuts (crux). From the block go up to better holds trending left to good gear and a steep crack above to a good ledge.
Show beta
βeta: Found the guidebook description for the crux P2 confusing. This may help? Step onto the wall and traverse right to a peg (past it’s sell by date. Rock 6 above). Keep traversing right to a small cracked block (wire) by thought provoking moves using undercuts (crux). From the block go up to better holds trending left to good gear and a steep crack above to a good ledge.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pavey Ark

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The White Wizard

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Scafell Crag)

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