UKC

Rockfax Description
A classy line and one of the toughest Lakeland E4s. The rock, line and gear are all there but the unusual style of climbing has been the undoing of many. Traverse left from East Gully to below the flared, deep-set curving groove and belay here.
Move up to below the flared groove. Climb it to where it constricts and make cramped moves to exit onto a slab. Move up right to a crack and take this until another crack on the right is reached and climbed to a big flat-topped ledge. Finish up a groove on the left passing an overhang. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Good E4s , Lakeland Revival 2015 , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Wet in the groove at the crux from seepage, despite a dry spell. This wasn't apparent from below. Made this route utterly nails; fell off a couple of times before giving up trying to avoid the wet holds. With the wisdom of hindsight I would recommend two things. Firstly, best with no gear on the back of your harness as this route required udging up the pod , rather than the delicate bridging I'd hoped for. Secondly, I would do Astra as a warm up and from the rap station at the top of pitch 2 head straight down the line of Fallen Angel to check whether it's dry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wet in the groove at the crux from seepage, despite a dry spell. This wasn't apparent from below. Made this route utterly nails; fell off a couple of times before giving up trying to avoid the wet holds. With the wisdom of hindsight I would recommend two things. Firstly, best with no gear on the back of your harness as this route required udging up the pod , rather than the delicate bridging I'd hoped for. Secondly, I would do Astra as a warm up and from the rap station at the top of pitch 2 head straight down the line of Fallen Angel to check whether it's dry.

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Guidebooks for Pavey Ark

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blitzkrieg

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Raven Crag, Thirlmere)

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