UKC

Rockfax Description
The second pitch is a stunner combining an improbable line and tremendous rock. Protection is reasonable with small wires. Start at a right-leading ramp.
1) 4c, 15m. Follow the ramp to an overhang and pass it on the right to gain a ledge. Take the steep wall above to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 22m. Move up the slabby wall to a very slim left-facing corner. Climb the corner until it steepens and fades, from where moves out to the rib on the right allow progression to a ledge.
3) 4a, 16m. Traverse to the left arete and climb it to ledges. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes the pillar of perfect rock in a fine position above Jack's Rake. The main pitch is one of the finest of its standard in the Lakes and is better protected than you might think with small wires. Low in the grade.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , Allan Austin Classics , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3 Star HVS Round - Climb them all in a single day , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , UK Holiday Plans , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , Nuts of Legends , Lakes HVS , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Cumbria for the Recreational User , Matt's Bucketlist , Cumbrian Classics , UK Priority , Billy's List , Lakes Trad , Lakeland Dreaming

Feedback

User Date Notes
osocavernoso 14 May Show βeta
βeta: The gear placements are very worn, making the route quite serious. I'm not sure about the technical grade, but if it's 5a, then overall, it should be graded E1 5a. However, it could be just HVS 4c, as the good holds are everywhere.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The gear placements are very worn, making the route quite serious. I'm not sure about the technical grade, but if it's 5a, then overall, it should be graded E1 5a. However, it could be just HVS 4c, as the good holds are everywhere.
Arty 22 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: gear placements very worn since i last did this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: gear placements very worn since i last did this.
EA_Mountain_Skills 8 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch is outstanding. Rain came in & made things interesting. Finished it & abseiled off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch is outstanding. Rain came in & made things interesting. Finished it & abseiled off.
bclifton 5 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing. Second pitch is amazing but not soft. Some gear slots very worn.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing. Second pitch is amazing but not soft. Some gear slots very worn.
LoneDeranger 7 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil anchor near top of slab pitch could do with some attention / contributions: 3 cords- one cord is old, another has totally worn section of sheef with exposed inner threads, mallion and carabiners ambiguous as to which to use (Some choice of rust vs not all cords used). That said, it served me fine!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil anchor near top of slab pitch could do with some attention / contributions: 3 cords- one cord is old, another has totally worn section of sheef with exposed inner threads, mallion and carabiners ambiguous as to which to use (Some choice of rust vs not all cords used). That said, it served me fine!
liensiwel 1999 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic weather as I recall. We soloed crescent climb to get to the start. The main pitch is one of the finest bits of vs climbing in the UK.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic weather as I recall. We soloed crescent climb to get to the start. The main pitch is one of the finest bits of vs climbing in the UK.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pavey Ark

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 180
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 173
Votes cast 169
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Merry Monk

Grade: HVS ***
(Lazonby)

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