Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Climbing is not allowed before 6pm on any of the routes above the Marine Drive, from and including Mayfair Wall during any Bank Holiday weekends and summer holiday times.

No climbing before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 


Rockfax Description
One of the best routes above the Marine Drive that features sustained climbing which is absorbing right up to the last move. From the ramp, step left into a groove and then follow the blunt wide rib to the top. © Rockfax


The Orme 7a+'s , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3


User Date Notes
Jen333 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts have all been replaced
Show beta
βeta: Bolts have all been replaced
Widda 15 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts 3 and 4 look a bit crusty..
Show beta
βeta: Bolts 3 and 4 look a bit crusty..

Logged Ascents

167 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sara's Wall

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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