UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

 

An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site. 

20m.

Rockfax Description
A small corner leads easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and move steeply up a shallow groove and wall to a lower-off. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Orme 7a+'s , North Wales Rock Graded List , ... And One For The Crow , North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jen333 7 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lower off has now been moved lower during annual lower off inspection due to deteriorating rock placement above. Bolt has also been added on midway traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower off has now been moved lower during annual lower off inspection due to deteriorating rock placement above. Bolt has also been added on midway traverse.
LRob 24 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Someone has moved the lower off a couple of feet higher. Although nice in terms of adding a move it now means you have to make moves on slightly snappy holds to clip the chains. A fall from here would be long.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Someone has moved the lower off a couple of feet higher. Although nice in terms of adding a move it now means you have to make moves on slightly snappy holds to clip the chains. A fall from here would be long.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
70 Degrees / Clogau Gold Link

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Penmaen Head)

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