This prominent arete begs to be climbed by everyone that passes on the A55 North Wales Expressway, yet it has only relatively recently seen much attention. Its location on the coast means that it can sometimes escape the worst of the mountain weather so it is often worth a look, especially if you are forced into an early retreat. The rock is compact which limits gear placements and there is also some loose rock. As such this route is usually soloed. The initial arete to about half-height is the most difficult.
1) Climb the arete with most of the trickier sections being climbed to the right to reach an overlap/impasse - quite committing in places.
2) Use a delicate rampline to pass the overlap on its left, then regain the arete proper. Continue up to the apex to reach a col where the angle changes.
3) Scuttle to the right to the base of a rib/runnel and climb this more easily to reach broken ground.
4) Head up over heather, scree and rock to the true summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Route: Follow the obvious curving ridge, keeping close to the edge. The situation and views are spectacular. The compact rock is slippery when wet and possibilities for protection are limited. Nevertheless there is an abundance of positive, incut holds and the quality of the rock is surprisingly good, with only a few loose blocks to contend with (particularly on the very edge of the arête).
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