UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
The crack-line in the centre of the wall has a hard finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The thin crackline in the centre of the wall leads to a hard finish - easily fluffable!

FA. M.Doyle, M.Lally 07/Sep/2010.

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Stringfellow 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Route given a thorough cleaning.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route given a thorough cleaning.
Dave Lyon 30 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Binning biner has now been removed
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Binning biner has now been removed
paulinepavlova 25 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A really good route, can\'t believe it doesn\'t get any stars. someone has left a bail-out carabiner on the last bolt, but it is rusted and cannot be opened, I tried. Is a long way from this bolt to lower off!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A really good route, can't believe it doesn't get any stars. someone has left a bail-out carabiner on the last bolt, but it is rusted and cannot be opened, I tried. Is a long way from this bolt to lower off!

Logged Ascents

39 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Iskra

Grade: 6b+ ***
(The Gallery)

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