UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

11m.

Rockfax Description
A powerful initial section leads to easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. N.Clacher 29/Feb/2008.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy_Ayshford 30 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Big rock fall on 29/08/2023. Just above the first lower off if you are continuing onto the £10 upper extension be very careful on shelves. Good job my belayer was looking up. The clip stick is kaput, but thank goodness that was the only thing damaged!
Show beta
βeta: Big rock fall on 29/08/2023. Just above the first lower off if you are continuing onto the £10 upper extension be very careful on shelves. Good job my belayer was looking up. The clip stick is kaput, but thank goodness that was the only thing damaged!
Tall Gecko Hands 26 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The start is steep and pumpy but the groove after is easier
Show beta
βeta: The start is steep and pumpy but the groove after is easier

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
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