UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

9m.

Rockfax Description
The undulating groove at the far right-hand side of the cliff. © Rockfax

FA. I.Andrews, N.Clacher, 01/Feb/2008.

Feedback

User Date Notes
andy jennings 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Hanging the third quickdraw is a bit sketchy for shorties / anyone climbing close to their limit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hanging the third quickdraw is a bit sketchy for shorties / anyone climbing close to their limit.

Logged Ascents

527 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 21 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Route 1

Grade: 5a ***
(Castle Inn Quarry)

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