UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

12m.

Rockfax Description
The far left-hand line is a pleasant introduction to this wall. © Rockfax

FA. M.Doyle, M.Burrows 31/Mar/2008.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matt Alexander 15 Jun Show βeta
βeta: There are some dangerously/ visibly loose large blocks by the fourth clip. Some came down when I was climbing and I wasn’t even using them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are some dangerously/ visibly loose large blocks by the fourth clip. Some came down when I was climbing and I wasn’t even using them.
salexc 19 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Good warmup for the 6c routes. Run out looks worse than it is, juggy goodness to the anchors.
Show beta
βeta: Good warmup for the 6c routes. Run out looks worse than it is, juggy goodness to the anchors.

Logged Ascents

343 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
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