Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
An excellent pitch that keeps the difficulties coming right up until the final moves to the lower-off. One of the best here. © Rockfax
FA. M.Doyle, M.Lally 30/Jun/2008.
Penmaen Head , Matt's North Wales Motivation , Pre-ragequit ropes
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Grade: 6c ***
(Penmaen West Quarry)