Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
Start up Clogau Gold then step right onto a ledge and go straight up the headwall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follow first two bolts of Clogau Gold, then step right onto the ledge and straight up the headwall.
FA. Chris Doyle 16/Oct/2011.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| remus | 18 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard sequence for me at 170cm. Felt about 7A/+ boulder problem. I found rocking left off the rest was the hard bit, though the moves after are also pretty dropable. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Hard sequence for me at 170cm. Felt about 7A/+ boulder problem. I found rocking left off the rest was the hard bit, though the moves after are also pretty dropable. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Ocean of Emotion
Grade: 7b+ ***
(The Little Orme)