Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
Start just left of the prominent vertical borehole. Climb to a ledge then ascend the open groove above with a move left to finish at the Mariana lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of the prominent vertical borehole. Climb to a ledge then ascend the open groove above with a move left to Mariana's lower-off.
FA. John Stringfellow, Dave Vose 01/Jul/2014.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Stringfellow | 4 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Route given a thorough cleaning. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route given a thorough cleaning. |
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| Pete_Frost | 13 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: One of the crux holds lower down seems loose and could land on the belayer if it comes off and they aren\'t standing off to the side. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One of the crux holds lower down seems loose and could land on the belayer if it comes off and they aren't standing off to the side. |
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| John Stringfellow | 6 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Route cleaned. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route cleaned. |
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| John Stringfellow | 3 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Route currently climbable but needs cleaning to make more enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route currently climbable but needs cleaning to make more enjoyable. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Mike Bailey's Route
Grade: 6b ***
(Creigiau Gigfran)