UKC

21m.

Rockfax Description
The leftmost of a set of closely-packed routes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The left-hand line on the clean buttress containing the old mystery route. Good moves and line but some friable rock. Start just right of the left-hand toe of the buttress. Gain the ledge at 3m. Continue up the rib above, passing poor rock to an easy exit into a niche (closely-spaced bolts in better rock out right). From the niche move delicately up to the headwall, moving left to make an awkward move to jugs. From standing on the jugs make crux moves up and a little rightwards to the lower-off.

FA. C.Calow, H.Walmsley 08/Apr/2017.

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flowstone Shuffle

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Penmaen Head)

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