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Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Previous nesting choughs have returned. They are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minumum


Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove


Rockfax Description
The leftmost of a set of closely-packed routes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The left-hand line on the clean buttress containing the old mystery route. Good moves and line but some friable rock. Start just right of the left-hand toe of the buttress. Gain the ledge at 3m. Continue up the rib above, passing poor rock to an easy exit into a niche (closely-spaced bolts in better rock out right). From the niche move delicately up to the headwall, moving left to make an awkward move to jugs. From standing on the jugs make crux moves up and a little rightwards to the lower-off.

FA. C.Calow, H.Walmsley 08/Apr/2017.


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry

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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
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Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: 6b+ ***
(The Gallery)

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