Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Last Butt One Level:
Previous nesting choughs have returned. They are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minumum
Level 3:
A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove
Rockfax Description
The leftmost of a set of closely-packed routes. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The left-hand line on the clean buttress containing the old mystery route. Good moves and line but some friable rock. Start just right of the left-hand toe of the buttress. Gain the ledge at 3m. Continue up the rib above, passing poor rock to an easy exit into a niche (closely-spaced bolts in better rock out right). From the niche move delicately up to the headwall, moving left to make an awkward move to jugs. From standing on the jugs make crux moves up and a little rightwards to the lower-off.
FA. C.Calow, H.Walmsley 08/Apr/2017.
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Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry
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Iskra
Grade: 6b+ ***
(The Gallery)