Rockfax Description
The leftmost of a set of closely-packed routes. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The left-hand line on the clean buttress containing the old mystery route. Good moves and line but some friable rock. Start just right of the left-hand toe of the buttress. Gain the ledge at 3m. Continue up the rib above, passing poor rock to an easy exit into a niche (closely-spaced bolts in better rock out right). From the niche move delicately up to the headwall, moving left to make an awkward move to jugs. From standing on the jugs make crux moves up and a little rightwards to the lower-off.
FA. C.Calow, H.Walmsley 08/Apr/2017.
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Penmaen Head)