UKC

Restricted Access

Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset). 

Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove

18m.

Rockfax Description
The big 'inverted staircase' groove right of the large overhangs. A strong line with good moves and impressive positions. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The big, inverted-staircase groove to the right of the large overhangs. A strong line with good moves and impressive positions. Start at a slabby rib directly below the groove. Climb the rib and step right across a wide crack to a slab. Move up onto a block at the base of a smooth slab and step left to the most prominent crack. Now it really starts. Climb the crack and continue with difficulty through a notch in the bulge (crux) to gain the slab above. Ascend the groove to the roof. Undercut left to holds in the corner above the lip. Gain the block above and exit round the left arĂȘte. Finish easily up the slab to the lower-off.

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 05/Jun/2015.

Feedback

User Date Notes
_Adam_Howard_ 23 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Blocks to the right of the small niche are very loose and are about to fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Blocks to the right of the small niche are very loose and are about to fall.
JonesE 18 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Beware last 2 bolt hangers can work themselves loose. Be prepared to at least check and hand tighten whilst climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware last 2 bolt hangers can work themselves loose. Be prepared to at least check and hand tighten whilst climbing.

Logged Ascents

86 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rough Cut

Grade: 6b+ ***
(The Diamond)

Loading Notifications...