UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
A superb meandering line that requires some balance skills. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A super route requiring balance and finesse.

FA. Ian Lloyd-Jones, Alun Hughes 04/Sep/2012.

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User Date Notes
BarwoodP 15 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First 7a Onsight, tricky sections to piece together. One section is slightly run out but its fine your on good holds generally.
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βeta: First 7a Onsight, tricky sections to piece together. One section is slightly run out but its fine your on good holds generally.
Sam2257 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hanger missing post crux just as you transition onto the slab. Looked like easy ground to be fair, but it'd be pretty run out by then by a few metres or more
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βeta: Hanger missing post crux just as you transition onto the slab. Looked like easy ground to be fair, but it'd be pretty run out by then by a few metres or more
LucaC 10 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rubbish bolting post-crux. Missing hanger and weirdly spaced bolts
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βeta: Rubbish bolting post-crux. Missing hanger and weirdly spaced bolts
gowain 9 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the microwave-sized loose block half way up the vertical section.
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βeta: Beware of the microwave-sized loose block half way up the vertical section.
dparkes 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Found it fully equipped with 16 new petzl bolts, so assume has been re-equipped since the previous ascents this year. It is run out reaching the bolt before the resting ledge but nothing serious.
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βeta: Great route. Found it fully equipped with 16 new petzl bolts, so assume has been re-equipped since the previous ascents this year. It is run out reaching the bolt before the resting ledge but nothing serious.
Ian Carr 5 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Shame about the missing hangers
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βeta: Shame about the missing hangers
geoff b 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is now more dangerous: 2 bolts have been removed, above the crux sequence in the middle of the route, leaving stubs that can't be clove-hitched & that could catch on something as you fly past! A bolt (out right towards Puzzle Groove) is out of reach & will not protect you from a potential ankle-breaking fall. BEWARE!
βeta?
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βeta: This route is now more dangerous: 2 bolts have been removed, above the crux sequence in the middle of the route, leaving stubs that can't be clove-hitched & that could catch on something as you fly past! A bolt (out right towards Puzzle Groove) is out of reach & will not protect you from a potential ankle-breaking fall. BEWARE!

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Obsessive, Compulsive

Grade: 7a ***
(Penmaen West Quarry)

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