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Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Previous nesting choughs have returned. They are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minumum

 

Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove

35m.

Rockfax Description
A superb meandering line that requires some balance skills. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A super route requiring balance and finesse.

FA. Ian Lloyd-Jones, Alun Hughes 04/Sep/2012.

Ticklists

North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ian Ford 13 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing by the missing bolt is easy, it gives it a bolted trad slate feel. On the way down I noticed a crack to the left of the bolt stub that would take a bomber No 2 or 3 nut. The stub is to short to get the wire of a nut over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbing by the missing bolt is easy, it gives it a bolted trad slate feel. On the way down I noticed a crack to the left of the bolt stub that would take a bomber No 2 or 3 nut. The stub is to short to get the wire of a nut over.
BarwoodP 15 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First 7a Onsight, tricky sections to piece together. One section is slightly run out but its fine your on good holds generally.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First 7a Onsight, tricky sections to piece together. One section is slightly run out but its fine your on good holds generally.
Sam2257 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hanger missing post crux just as you transition onto the slab. Looked like easy ground to be fair, but it'd be pretty run out by then by a few metres or more
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hanger missing post crux just as you transition onto the slab. Looked like easy ground to be fair, but it'd be pretty run out by then by a few metres or more
LucaC 10 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rubbish bolting post-crux. Missing hanger and weirdly spaced bolts
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rubbish bolting post-crux. Missing hanger and weirdly spaced bolts
gowain 9 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the microwave-sized loose block half way up the vertical section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware of the microwave-sized loose block half way up the vertical section.
dparkes 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Found it fully equipped with 16 new petzl bolts, so assume has been re-equipped since the previous ascents this year. It is run out reaching the bolt before the resting ledge but nothing serious.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Found it fully equipped with 16 new petzl bolts, so assume has been re-equipped since the previous ascents this year. It is run out reaching the bolt before the resting ledge but nothing serious.
Ian Carr 5 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Shame about the missing hangers
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Shame about the missing hangers
geoff b 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is now more dangerous: 2 bolts have been removed, above the crux sequence in the middle of the route, leaving stubs that can't be clove-hitched & that could catch on something as you fly past! A bolt (out right towards Puzzle Groove) is out of reach & will not protect you from a potential ankle-breaking fall. BEWARE!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is now more dangerous: 2 bolts have been removed, above the crux sequence in the middle of the route, leaving stubs that can't be clove-hitched & that could catch on something as you fly past! A bolt (out right towards Puzzle Groove) is out of reach & will not protect you from a potential ankle-breaking fall. BEWARE!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rub-a-Dub-Dub

Grade: 7a ***
(The Diamond)

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