Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Previous nesting choughs have returned. They are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minumum


Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove


Rockfax Description
The series of grooves starting just right of Half-Life. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The un-named mystery line mentioned in North Wales Limestone and A55 Sport Climbs. Now re-cleaned and re-bolted and given a name. Good climbing. Start 4m to the right of Half-Life. Climb a groove to a grass ledge with a sapling. Climb the groove behind the sapling to gain the next footledge and up the rib on the right. Bridge left and make a long reach to jugs above. Zig-zag more easily to the next groove and step right to reach a good handhold on the right side of the pedestal above. Nicely delicate.


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry

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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mike Bailey's Route

Grade: 6b ***
(Creigiau Gigfran)

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