Rockfax Description
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
FA. Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993.
Ticklists
Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JamesAlexanderTurnbull | 11 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well equipped and would be easy to bail from or aid up if need on the harder sections. P5 is probably 6c and quite sustained, P6 is more 6b and a one move wonder off the belay. Definitely take approach shoes to the start and end. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well equipped and would be easy to bail from or aid up if need on the harder sections. P5 is probably 6c and quite sustained, P6 is more 6b and a one move wonder off the belay. Definitely take approach shoes to the start and end. |
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| Chad123 | 24 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Total classic route, top pitch is great, though not too bad for 6c+ with just one bouldery crux to pull over the roof. The 6b+ below this is a one move wonder as well, though very pleasant. Top pitch is definately harder than the lower 6b+, which is only really difficult because of the bolt position on the crux. First pitch is fine, though a stiff warm up for most probably! Straight into 6b slab moves, which you can avoid on the left if you like. Go do it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Total classic route, top pitch is great, though not too bad for 6c+ with just one bouldery crux to pull over the roof. The 6b+ below this is a one move wonder as well, though very pleasant. Top pitch is definately harder than the lower 6b+, which is only really difficult because of the bolt position on the crux. First pitch is fine, though a stiff warm up for most probably! Straight into 6b slab moves, which you can avoid on the left if you like. Go do it! |
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| Ewan | 22 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: First class route, worthy of the 3 stars. For what its worth I thought the grades were -, 6b, 6b, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 6c+ We also did from the pinnacle to the cave in one pitch on a 50m rope (just)...a fantastic, absorbing, exposed pitch. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: First class route, worthy of the 3 stars. For what its worth I thought the grades were -, 6b, 6b, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 6c+ We also did from the pinnacle to the cave in one pitch on a 50m rope (just)...a fantastic, absorbing, exposed pitch. |
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| Justin Shiels | 30 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic. I thought the grades for the last 3 pitches should be 6c, 6b and 6c. Also the second belay is too high on the topo. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic. I thought the grades for the last 3 pitches should be 6c, 6b and 6c. Also the second belay is too high on the topo. |
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The Gash
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Castellet de Calp)