UKC

207m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics , Blocfit Multi in CB

Feedback

User Date Notes
JamesAlexanderTurnbull 11 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Well equipped and would be easy to bail from or aid up if need on the harder sections. P5 is probably 6c and quite sustained, P6 is more 6b and a one move wonder off the belay. Definitely take approach shoes to the start and end.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well equipped and would be easy to bail from or aid up if need on the harder sections. P5 is probably 6c and quite sustained, P6 is more 6b and a one move wonder off the belay. Definitely take approach shoes to the start and end.
Chad123 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Total classic route, top pitch is great, though not too bad for 6c+ with just one bouldery crux to pull over the roof. The 6b+ below this is a one move wonder as well, though very pleasant. Top pitch is definately harder than the lower 6b+, which is only really difficult because of the bolt position on the crux. First pitch is fine, though a stiff warm up for most probably! Straight into 6b slab moves, which you can avoid on the left if you like. Go do it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Total classic route, top pitch is great, though not too bad for 6c+ with just one bouldery crux to pull over the roof. The 6b+ below this is a one move wonder as well, though very pleasant. Top pitch is definately harder than the lower 6b+, which is only really difficult because of the bolt position on the crux. First pitch is fine, though a stiff warm up for most probably! Straight into 6b slab moves, which you can avoid on the left if you like. Go do it!
Ewan 22 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First class route, worthy of the 3 stars. For what its worth I thought the grades were -, 6b, 6b, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 6c+ We also did from the pinnacle to the cave in one pitch on a 50m rope (just)...a fantastic, absorbing, exposed pitch.
Show beta
βeta: First class route, worthy of the 3 stars. For what its worth I thought the grades were -, 6b, 6b, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 6c+ We also did from the pinnacle to the cave in one pitch on a 50m rope (just)...a fantastic, absorbing, exposed pitch.
Justin Shiels 30 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic. I thought the grades for the last 3 pitches should be 6c, 6b and 6c. Also the second belay is too high on the topo.
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic. I thought the grades for the last 3 pitches should be 6c, 6b and 6c. Also the second belay is too high on the topo.

Logged Ascents

275 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penon de Ifach

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 117 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valhalla

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)

Loading Notifications...