Loading Notifications...
100m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.
1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab.
2) 6a, 18m. Climb direct up the slab to a small stance in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos.
3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays.
4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall (some fixed gear) to the great slab. Climb straight up this to join Valencianos. Either continue up this or make three long abseils. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
adamski 26 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Direct de UBSA is a fantastic route with the best pitch being the 4th pitch which is a intimidating traverse to regain the main slab. The sequence of moves to get onto the slab at the start of the second pitch are not F5. I would say they are around F6a+ and local climbers, apparently, also go with the F6a+ grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Direct de UBSA is a fantastic route with the best pitch being the 4th pitch which is a intimidating traverse to regain the main slab. The sequence of moves to get onto the slab at the start of the second pitch are not F5. I would say they are around F6a+ and local climbers, apparently, also go with the F6a+ grade.
Chris Craggs 27 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Well spotted that man! Not sure about the rest of them, but I have done it! Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well spotted that man! Not sure about the rest of them, but I have done it! Chris
Phil Murray 27 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Do you mean the latter, Chris? Direct de UBSA *isn't* loose? (i see it has no abseil) ... is it any good i wonder, has anyone done it, as the line looks terrific.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do you mean the latter, Chris? Direct de UBSA *isn't* loose? (i see it has no abseil) ... is it any good i wonder, has anyone done it, as the line looks terrific.
Chris Craggs 30 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A few (all?) of these folks have done DIEDRE UBSA and not Direct de UBSA. The former is not loose and does not include an abseil!!!! Chris
 
Show beta
βeta: A few (all?) of these folks have done DIEDRE UBSA and not Direct de UBSA. The former is not loose and does not include an abseil!!!! Chris

Logged Ascents

75 users have logged this
10 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

No Tremoles

Grade: 6a ***
(Ambolo)