Restricted Access
North Face - seasonal climbing restriction due to nesting birds, usually from 1st April to 30th June.
All faces- climbers must seek a reservation permit from the local authority to climb here otherwise they will be fined, link to the website with the pdf guide for booking here: https://www.calpe.es/en/discover-calpe/natural-areas/pe%C3%B1on-de-ifach
Rockfax Description
HVS. One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing, but sees few ascents and has some loose rock. Take a rack.1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos.4) 4+, 20m. Climb up a corner, then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an Arete.5) 4+, 20m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads.6) 5, 25m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay.7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay (junction with Diedro UBSA).8) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing but doesn't see much traffic. Some of the rock is loose. Take a rack.
1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos.
4) 4+, 25m. Climb up a corner (initially as for Polvos Mágicos P4) then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an arete. [ Topo shows incorrect line ]
5) 4+, 25m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads.
6) 5, 20m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay.
7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay.
8) 4+, 20m. Surmount the final bulge by bridging and continue to the ridge. Escape more easily to the summit path.
FA. Armand Ballard, J.M.Gonzalez 1979.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rich A-Wilkes | 28 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 is incorrect on topo. From the stance, follow the corner for Polvos mágicos towards a belay until a bolt on the right leads you towards the ramp. Spanish topos show the correct line. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 is incorrect on topo. From the stance, follow the corner for Polvos mágicos towards a belay until a bolt on the right leads you towards the ramp. Spanish topos show the correct line. |
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| Joseph Price | 28 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beware! Rockfax topo shows route on opposite (right) side of Lopez & miserables (7 & 9) compared to Spanish topos & reports. (left) We ended up on same path as Jim Blackford's 2018 logbook entry about pitch 4 which appeared the only option for progress. (Loose chimney then traverse left through bush.) Very large blocks, very loose on this area. This is not the way. Spanish topos all show route to *left* of those routes, going up corner ignoring the first "ramp"/"slab" (at about 5m) for some distance further before finally turning right on another ramp around the arete. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Beware! Rockfax topo shows route on opposite (right) side of Lopez & miserables (7 & 9) compared to Spanish topos & reports. (left) We ended up on same path as Jim Blackford's 2018 logbook entry about pitch 4 which appeared the only option for progress. (Loose chimney then traverse left through bush.) Very large blocks, very loose on this area. This is not the way. Spanish topos all show route to *left* of those routes, going up corner ignoring the first "ramp"/"slab" (at about 5m) for some distance further before finally turning right on another ramp around the arete. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penon de Ifach
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Llobet/Bertomeu
Grade: 5c ***
(Mascarat)