A seven-pitch classic with atmospheric and intimidating climbing. Start midway between Costa Blanca and Diedro UBSA, under the centre of the huge pillar.1) 7a, 38m. Climb into a crumbly cave. Pull out right and up a leaning, compact wall. Easier climbing to a belay.2) 7a, 20m. Climb up past a rock scar, make a scary move leftwards onto a flake. Climb overlapped walls above to a belay.3) 6b+, 30m. Climb a worrying bulge, then easy ground to a big steep jamming/layback crack which leads to a belay.4) 6b+, 20m. A brilliant, technical and exposed hanging Arete leads to a belay on big ledge on top of the pinnacle.5) 5, 25m. Step down across the void to gain lovely, easy and smooth jamming cracks. A very pleasant respite.6) 6c+, 30m. A brilliant, big, overhanging pitch up a band of perfect rock. Make ever-steeper moves up the big corner to a tricky capping roof. Completely wild!7) 7a, 40m. Bolts lead left to a thread, but there are no holds. Reach left to clip a bolt on the wall, then top-rope to the thread and follow the thin corner above to easy ground and then the top. There may also be a higher method of doing the traverse. © Rockfax
FA. Roy de Valera, Miguel Cebrian 1999.
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