UKC

220m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. The most popular route on this face by a margin. It has some shrubbery (and gulls), though the climbing higher up is worthwhile. There is a fair bit of fixed gear, so carry a light rack.
1) 4, 25m. Climb the awkward, narrow and slippery chimney in the right-hand side of the bay, then move right over a bulge to a good ledge on the right.
2) 3, 50m. Bush-bash up to the top of the buttress on the right.
3) 3, 20m. Climb the rib above, then traverse 8m left to a belay.
4) 5, 20m. Climb straight up the steep chimney to a ledge and continue to a stance on the top of the second buttress.
5) 4+, 25m. Step around the corner to the right, and climb up an easy, low-angled, broad ramp to the top of the buttress.
6) 4, 30m. Climb the slab slightly leftwards to a crack leading to the summit. Follow this in a fine position to a stance and belay about 15m up the crack system.
7) 4+, 30m. Follow the crack - awkward low down, but easing as height is gained. Where it becomes vegetated, pull out left onto the rib (bolt) and follow this, eventually moving left into another groove that leads to the cliff top and a belay on easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Panyella, Salas 1955.

Ticklists

Costa B , Costa blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
JamesAlexanderTurnbull 1 Mar Show βeta
βeta: If you are comfortable on VS/HVS terrain not much rack is needed. A medium set of wires will plug in all the gaps and plenty of narrow slings as there loads of threads.
βeta?
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βeta: If you are comfortable on VS/HVS terrain not much rack is needed. A medium set of wires will plug in all the gaps and plenty of narrow slings as there loads of threads.
froglette 13 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A few wires, cams and slings definitely helped. The bolts are very sparse, sometimes just one or 2 per pitch. Nice route. Follow Mark Eddy's line as others suggest. Not rockfax after p5.
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βeta: A few wires, cams and slings definitely helped. The bolts are very sparse, sometimes just one or 2 per pitch. Nice route. Follow Mark Eddy's line as others suggest. Not rockfax after p5.
froglette 13 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route. A bit tricky with a pack. Jeff led like a pro.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely route. A bit tricky with a pack. Jeff led like a pro.
Calum3610 27 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax is OK for pitches 1,2,3,4 and 5 (although it grades 5 as 4+ when it’s only about 3). For pitch 6 and 7 rockfax becomes wrong fax and you’re best off ignoring it. For pitch 6 move right from the belay to the black thread then move up and a left a little to the bolt, which is directly 10m above the belay. Then keep going directly up and a little right to the second bolt. After the second bolt I moved left a little and up following threads up a vegetated crack until I could move right again and up to the belay station. Some loose blocks in the vegetated crack. For pitch 7 move up and left from the belay to a bolt then follow the rib until you can enter an easy groove to the top. Would advise taking a full rack unless you’re leading well above 5a, the bolts are sparse, but we found plenty of trad placements on the crux pitches. Pitch 4 is about HS, plenty of jugs and gear. Pitch 6 was the crux for us, felt steady VS, enough gear between bolts if you looked for it.
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax is OK for pitches 1,2,3,4 and 5 (although it grades 5 as 4+ when it’s only about 3). For pitch 6 and 7 rockfax becomes wrong fax and you’re best off ignoring it. For pitch 6 move right from the belay to the black thread then move up and a left a little to the bolt, which is directly 10m above the belay. Then keep going directly up and a little right to the second bolt. After the second bolt I moved left a little and up following threads up a vegetated crack until I could move right again and up to the belay station. Some loose blocks in the vegetated crack. For pitch 7 move up and left from the belay to a bolt then follow the rib until you can enter an easy groove to the top. Would advise taking a full rack unless you’re leading well above 5a, the bolts are sparse, but we found plenty of trad placements on the crux pitches. Pitch 4 is about HS, plenty of jugs and gear. Pitch 6 was the crux for us, felt steady VS, enough gear between bolts if you looked for it.
Josit67 20 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Bring your own tat to be able to backup some old slings. Medium rack will do. 3rd pitch is more like 35 m.
βeta?
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βeta: Bring your own tat to be able to backup some old slings. Medium rack will do. 3rd pitch is more like 35 m.
RichPacker 5 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t trust Rockfax, the route is different than the picture - follow the polish and tat. We didn’t have a trad rack just a few nuts and draws and couple of slings but wished we had brought a full rack with us, particularly more slings to back up the tat and looked like some nice larger placements for some cams. Bolts were spaced and also there was some old tat, some of which was uv damaged. The anchors were all bolted. Climbing was generally straight forward, at least one of the pitches was easy scrambling. The walk back down was probably harder than the climbing, with extremely slippery rock on the path.
Show beta
βeta: Don’t trust Rockfax, the route is different than the picture - follow the polish and tat. We didn’t have a trad rack just a few nuts and draws and couple of slings but wished we had brought a full rack with us, particularly more slings to back up the tat and looked like some nice larger placements for some cams. Bolts were spaced and also there was some old tat, some of which was uv damaged. The anchors were all bolted. Climbing was generally straight forward, at least one of the pitches was easy scrambling. The walk back down was probably harder than the climbing, with extremely slippery rock on the path.
liamhughes1981 5 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: None of the pitches are anywhere near 5. Would suggest closer to 4a with some of the pitches scrambles not climbs. Very, very easy for the grade
βeta?
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βeta: None of the pitches are anywhere near 5. Would suggest closer to 4a with some of the pitches scrambles not climbs. Very, very easy for the grade
dobby 200 22 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: We were welcomed into the visitor centre to get the (free) permit, it took 30 seconds to do in person. In the summer I can imagine needing to pre-book due to the 300 person limit per day.
βeta?
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βeta: We were welcomed into the visitor centre to get the (free) permit, it took 30 seconds to do in person. In the summer I can imagine needing to pre-book due to the 300 person limit per day.
Alison Cairns 20 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The notices saying you need a permit have been up for several years now, despite them being there all winter they only seem to apply in practice when the visitor centre is open (May - Sept?) - otherwise the turnstile is open both directions and access is unrestricted.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The notices saying you need a permit have been up for several years now, despite them being there all winter they only seem to apply in practice when the visitor centre is open (May - Sept?) - otherwise the turnstile is open both directions and access is unrestricted.
IainMunro 5 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As others have said don’t trend left on Pitch 6. First bolt is about 10m directly above the belay, there’s an insitu thread out right for the first runner. We carried a few cams and extra slings for threads
Show beta
βeta: As others have said don’t trend left on Pitch 6. First bolt is about 10m directly above the belay, there’s an insitu thread out right for the first runner. We carried a few cams and extra slings for threads
andyevans 7 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is a restriction to gain access to the whole crag - https://calpe.es/en/node/2777 Supposed to book in advance or risk a fine. Booking site: https://parquesnaturales.gva.es/es/web/pn-penyal-d-ifac
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a restriction to gain access to the whole crag - https://calpe.es/en/node/2777 Supposed to book in advance or risk a fine. Booking site: https://parquesnaturales.gva.es/es/web/pn-penyal-d-ifac
PeteColdham 23 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Do not go left on pitch 6 as per rockfax, its fairly straight up and slightly right and probably equally as tough as p4.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do not go left on pitch 6 as per rockfax, its fairly straight up and slightly right and probably equally as tough as p4.
nrobinson93 30 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A good route for a hot day. In situ threads looked solid, needed a couple of nuts and a medium cam so would recommend a light rack, as well as plenty of slings if you wanted to back up questionable threads. Grading is a bit all over the place, crux pitches were definitely 4 and 6. The only very dirty/green pitch is 2 - it gets better after that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route for a hot day. In situ threads looked solid, needed a couple of nuts and a medium cam so would recommend a light rack, as well as plenty of slings if you wanted to back up questionable threads. Grading is a bit all over the place, crux pitches were definitely 4 and 6. The only very dirty/green pitch is 2 - it gets better after that.
JEdmunds 30 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be prepared, the climbing isn’t too tough but the bolting is extremely sparse. Some pitches like the crux pitch only have one bolt around 15 metres above the belay. Plenty of new threads in places, we took a rack of small/medium nuts and offset nuts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be prepared, the climbing isn’t too tough but the bolting is extremely sparse. Some pitches like the crux pitch only have one bolt around 15 metres above the belay. Plenty of new threads in places, we took a rack of small/medium nuts and offset nuts.
monkeyman79 29 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take a rack of nuts. Some of the pitches only have 1 or 2 bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take a rack of nuts. Some of the pitches only have 1 or 2 bolts.
VNT 9 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: When starting P2, don't go left next to the wall but rather go right, don't get into bushes. When starting P7, don't go up the crack (as WrongFax says) but rather go little up-left to the black thread and a bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When starting P2, don't go left next to the wall but rather go right, don't get into bushes. When starting P7, don't go up the crack (as WrongFax says) but rather go little up-left to the black thread and a bolt.
StefanB 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face. Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads. The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face. Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads. The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Penon de Ifach

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Guidebook Correction

Spain : Costa Blanca (2013)

Richard Goodey
23 Mar, 2023

The topo on the app is different to the book. Both are wrong but the app is very wrong. This topo is correct https://eskalamandra.es/product/via-pany-al-penon-de-ifach?lang=en I did email this to you two years before. I climbed the route again today. Several other people have mentioned the mistake and if a person is climbing at the top of their grade it might hurt them.

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Route of Interest
Espolón Limaban

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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