UKC

220m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. The most popular route on this face by a margin. It has some shrubbery (and gulls), though the climbing higher up is worthwhile. There is a fair bit of fixed gear, so carry a light rack.
1) 4, 25m. Climb the awkward, narrow and slippery chimney in the right-hand side of the bay, then move right over a bulge to a good ledge on the right.
2) 3, 50m. Bush-bash up to the top of the buttress on the right.
3) 3, 20m. Climb the rib above, then traverse 8m left to a belay.
4) 5, 20m. Climb straight up the steep chimney to a ledge and continue to a stance on the top of the second buttress.
5) 4+, 25m. Step around the corner to the right, and climb up an easy, low-angled, broad ramp to the top of the buttress.
6) 4, 30m. Climb the slab slightly leftwards to a crack leading to the summit. Follow this in a fine position to a stance and belay about 15m up the crack system.
7) 4+, 30m. Follow the crack - awkward low down, but easing as height is gained. Where it becomes vegetated, pull out left onto the rib (bolt) and follow this, eventually moving left into another groove that leads to the cliff top and a belay on easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Panyella, Salas 1955.

Ticklists

Costa B , Costa blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
andyevans 7 Nov Show βeta
βeta: There is a restriction to gain access to the whole crag - https://calpe.es/en/node/2777 Supposed to book in advance or risk a fine. Booking site: https://parquesnaturales.gva.es/es/web/pn-penyal-d-ifac
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a restriction to gain access to the whole crag - https://calpe.es/en/node/2777 Supposed to book in advance or risk a fine. Booking site: https://parquesnaturales.gva.es/es/web/pn-penyal-d-ifac
PeteColdham 23 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Do not go left on pitch 6 as per rockfax, its fairly straight up and slightly right and probably equally as tough as p4.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do not go left on pitch 6 as per rockfax, its fairly straight up and slightly right and probably equally as tough as p4.
nrobinson93 30 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A good route for a hot day. In situ threads looked solid, needed a couple of nuts and a medium cam so would recommend a light rack, as well as plenty of slings if you wanted to back up questionable threads. Grading is a bit all over the place, crux pitches were definitely 4 and 6. The only very dirty/green pitch is 2 - it gets better after that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route for a hot day. In situ threads looked solid, needed a couple of nuts and a medium cam so would recommend a light rack, as well as plenty of slings if you wanted to back up questionable threads. Grading is a bit all over the place, crux pitches were definitely 4 and 6. The only very dirty/green pitch is 2 - it gets better after that.
JEdmunds 30 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be prepared, the climbing isn’t too tough but the bolting is extremely sparse. Some pitches like the crux pitch only have one bolt around 15 metres above the belay. Plenty of new threads in places, we took a rack of small/medium nuts and offset nuts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be prepared, the climbing isn’t too tough but the bolting is extremely sparse. Some pitches like the crux pitch only have one bolt around 15 metres above the belay. Plenty of new threads in places, we took a rack of small/medium nuts and offset nuts.
monkeyman79 29 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take a rack of nuts. Some of the pitches only have 1 or 2 bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take a rack of nuts. Some of the pitches only have 1 or 2 bolts.
VNT 9 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: When starting P2, don't go left next to the wall but rather go right, don't get into bushes. When starting P7, don't go up the crack (as WrongFax says) but rather go little up-left to the black thread and a bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When starting P2, don't go left next to the wall but rather go right, don't get into bushes. When starting P7, don't go up the crack (as WrongFax says) but rather go little up-left to the black thread and a bolt.
StefanB 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face. Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads. The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face. Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads. The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)

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Route of Interest
Espolón Limaban

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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